I recently had the opportunity to tour the cannabis growing operation at New Leaf Enterprises in Seattle. I've done some propagation and greenhouse work in the past, so I found the tour fascinating.
However, seeing how cannabis is grown for commercial use isn't something the average person might get to do. Although the sale and use of medical and recreational marijuana is legal in Washington State, you won't be seeing acres of marijuana planted in open ground any time soon. According to state regulations, each plant must be registered and accounted for throughout its lifecycle, and it's hard to protect plants from poaching when they're grown outdoors.
Plus, indoor operations can control everything: heat, humidity, water, nutrients, and day length (i.e. periods of light and darkness). Not surprisingly, users say that the quality of products grown indoors is superior to what is grown outdoors.
If you've ever been curious about how these plants are grown and harvested, and no one has invited you inside their operation to show you around, here's the next best thing - a video tour inside New Leaf Enterprises, home of Dama Cannabis. Take a look.
Saturday, March 7, 2015
Saturday, May 3, 2014
Save Your Back With Raised Beds
If you've decided that you want to turn part of your lawn into a vegetable garden, where do you start?
Here's one way to go about it. First, rent a sod cutter or use a mattock to take out the grass. (Be sure to take up all of the roots or, before you know it, grass will start growing again in your new garden.) Then turn the soil, using either a shovel or a rototiller. After that, amend the soil with compost and perhaps test the soil to see if there are other micro-nutrients that need to be added. When you have worked all of that into the soil, then rake it out, break up any remaining clods, and prepare the bed for planting.
OR - skip all of that and build raised beds right on top of the grass.
You can build frames like the ones shown above, using cedar 1x6 planks and 2x2 corner posts. These particular frames are about 18" deep, deep enough for root crops like potatoes or carrots. But beds don't have to be that deep - 8" to 12" is adequate if you intend to grow herbs and flowers.
To smother the grass so that it doesn't come up into your raised bed garden, try this simple sheet composting method. First, if the grass is dried out, splash a little water on it. You want it to be moist as though it had just rained. Now sprinkle a very thin layer of compost over the grass. Over that, lay newspaper, 4 or 5 sheets thick, being careful to completely cover all of the grass. Now spread another layer of compost over the top of the newspaper and sprinkle a bit of water over it. Then add clean topsoil to fill the raised bed and plant your garden.
The newspaper will keep the grass from growing and the micro-organisms in the compost will break down the dead grass and newspaper. It takes about a year for this process to be complete. In the meantime, over the top of it all, you are growing and harvesting food for your table.
Here's one way to go about it. First, rent a sod cutter or use a mattock to take out the grass. (Be sure to take up all of the roots or, before you know it, grass will start growing again in your new garden.) Then turn the soil, using either a shovel or a rototiller. After that, amend the soil with compost and perhaps test the soil to see if there are other micro-nutrients that need to be added. When you have worked all of that into the soil, then rake it out, break up any remaining clods, and prepare the bed for planting.
OR - skip all of that and build raised beds right on top of the grass.
You can build frames like the ones shown above, using cedar 1x6 planks and 2x2 corner posts. These particular frames are about 18" deep, deep enough for root crops like potatoes or carrots. But beds don't have to be that deep - 8" to 12" is adequate if you intend to grow herbs and flowers.
To smother the grass so that it doesn't come up into your raised bed garden, try this simple sheet composting method. First, if the grass is dried out, splash a little water on it. You want it to be moist as though it had just rained. Now sprinkle a very thin layer of compost over the grass. Over that, lay newspaper, 4 or 5 sheets thick, being careful to completely cover all of the grass. Now spread another layer of compost over the top of the newspaper and sprinkle a bit of water over it. Then add clean topsoil to fill the raised bed and plant your garden.
The newspaper will keep the grass from growing and the micro-organisms in the compost will break down the dead grass and newspaper. It takes about a year for this process to be complete. In the meantime, over the top of it all, you are growing and harvesting food for your table.
Wednesday, March 26, 2014
The Magic of Mulch
When I do consultations, I get a lot of questions about mulch. First of all, what IS mulch? Is it compost, bark, what?
The answer is that mulch is a blanket - it is any material that you use to cover the bare soil in your garden beds. It could be compost, bark, fallen leaves, pine needles, a composted combination of sawdust and manure, even rocks or crushed glass (I do not recommend the last choice in particular, but I have seen it done) - anything that covers the soil while allowing water and air to penetrate.
Mulch is usually applied in a layer 1-1/2 to 2" deep. This depth will help hold moisture in the soil so you won't have to water as often. It will also do a good job of keeping weeds under control. I believe that weeding without mulching is a waste of your time. When you have weeded and loosened the soil, you've created a perfect place for weed seed blowing by on a spring breeze to land and germinate. A thick layer of mulch is not as "germination friendly" as your freshly worked soil, so it keeps new weeds from getting established. If there is already weed seed in the ground, which is often the case in areas that have been weedy for a long time, it has trouble germinating if it is smothered by a good layer of mulch.
When people tell me that they used a mulch "but the weeds came right back," it's because one of two things happened.
1) They didn't put down enough mulch. A mere half inch is not enough.
2) They failed to weed thoroughly. If the roots are still in the ground, the weeds will regrow quickly. Pulling the tops off isn't weeding. You have to use a hand cultivator or soil knife and grub out those roots. In areas that have long been home to weeds, a couple of seasons of diligent weeding will be necessary to get things under control. Each year will be easier and by season 3, you'll be pleased to see how quickly you can get your beds weeded and looking good.
OK, now you know why you should use a mulch. So the question is: which one? A lot of people use bark, but I don't recommend it. Bark is not composted. After you spread it out over your garden beds, it will start to break down and as it composts itself it takes nitrogen from the soil to complete that process. That means there is less nitrogen available for your plants to use and they end up stressed. Notice the leaf color on plants sitting in a sea of bark. The leaves are often yellowish instead of deep green - and that's because they lack nitrogen. To keep that from happening, use a mulch that has already been composted.
(That said, I do like bark as a place holder. If you have a spot overrun by weeds that you plan sometime in the future to turn into garden space, weed it well and put down a thick layer of bark. It will keep the weeds down and when you are ready to use the space, you can plow the composted bark into the soil. Thick layers of coarsely chopped bark also make fine garden paths between raised beds.)
That narrows the choice down to compost (homemade or commercial) or products like Steerco and Gro-co. Steerco is a combination of composted sawdust and steer manure. Gro-co is composted sawdust and municipal sludge (in other words treated and composted sewage). Some people have no problem with Gro-co, others are creeped out by it. It is completely safe. The only possible objection I might have is that there might be a higher (but still very small) concentration of heavy metals in it.
My preference is Steerco, sold in Seattle by Sawdust Supply, the company that provides all the soil and mulch for the Northwest Flower and Garden Show. I've used countless yards of this material in the past 20 years and have always been happy with the result. It is already composted and contains microorganisms that perk up tired garden beds. It helps add structure to sandy soils and loosens clay soils - provided that you make it part of your annual bed clean up and maintenance. It does all the things you want a mulch to do, plus it has no odor and it looks great. It makes the humblest garden look professionally done.
On top of all that, Steerco is a bargain. A bag weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 75 lbs. and costs about $5, including tax. Steerco is also available by the yard. You can pick it up yourself or have it delivered.
If you need to figure out how much mulch, bark or topsoil you need for a project, here's a handy chart.
The answer is that mulch is a blanket - it is any material that you use to cover the bare soil in your garden beds. It could be compost, bark, fallen leaves, pine needles, a composted combination of sawdust and manure, even rocks or crushed glass (I do not recommend the last choice in particular, but I have seen it done) - anything that covers the soil while allowing water and air to penetrate.
Mulch is usually applied in a layer 1-1/2 to 2" deep. This depth will help hold moisture in the soil so you won't have to water as often. It will also do a good job of keeping weeds under control. I believe that weeding without mulching is a waste of your time. When you have weeded and loosened the soil, you've created a perfect place for weed seed blowing by on a spring breeze to land and germinate. A thick layer of mulch is not as "germination friendly" as your freshly worked soil, so it keeps new weeds from getting established. If there is already weed seed in the ground, which is often the case in areas that have been weedy for a long time, it has trouble germinating if it is smothered by a good layer of mulch.
 |
| Heather bed before weeding |
1) They didn't put down enough mulch. A mere half inch is not enough.
 |
| Heather bed after weeding and mulching with Steerco |
OK, now you know why you should use a mulch. So the question is: which one? A lot of people use bark, but I don't recommend it. Bark is not composted. After you spread it out over your garden beds, it will start to break down and as it composts itself it takes nitrogen from the soil to complete that process. That means there is less nitrogen available for your plants to use and they end up stressed. Notice the leaf color on plants sitting in a sea of bark. The leaves are often yellowish instead of deep green - and that's because they lack nitrogen. To keep that from happening, use a mulch that has already been composted.
(That said, I do like bark as a place holder. If you have a spot overrun by weeds that you plan sometime in the future to turn into garden space, weed it well and put down a thick layer of bark. It will keep the weeds down and when you are ready to use the space, you can plow the composted bark into the soil. Thick layers of coarsely chopped bark also make fine garden paths between raised beds.)
That narrows the choice down to compost (homemade or commercial) or products like Steerco and Gro-co. Steerco is a combination of composted sawdust and steer manure. Gro-co is composted sawdust and municipal sludge (in other words treated and composted sewage). Some people have no problem with Gro-co, others are creeped out by it. It is completely safe. The only possible objection I might have is that there might be a higher (but still very small) concentration of heavy metals in it.
My preference is Steerco, sold in Seattle by Sawdust Supply, the company that provides all the soil and mulch for the Northwest Flower and Garden Show. I've used countless yards of this material in the past 20 years and have always been happy with the result. It is already composted and contains microorganisms that perk up tired garden beds. It helps add structure to sandy soils and loosens clay soils - provided that you make it part of your annual bed clean up and maintenance. It does all the things you want a mulch to do, plus it has no odor and it looks great. It makes the humblest garden look professionally done.
On top of all that, Steerco is a bargain. A bag weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 75 lbs. and costs about $5, including tax. Steerco is also available by the yard. You can pick it up yourself or have it delivered.
If you need to figure out how much mulch, bark or topsoil you need for a project, here's a handy chart.
Thursday, March 20, 2014
Real Palm Trees of Southern California
Does it seem odd that I am posting photos of trees in California? Well, when you consider that this has been a long, cold winter, one that refuses to leave, getting lost in images of blue skies and warm weather is a welcome distraction. Am I right?
So, happy First Day of Spring 2014 everyone. Here are photos I took on a trip to Palm Springs not long ago. Enjoy!
And then there are the camera flare palms. I don't know how I got this shot and I'm sure I couldn't replicate it. It is probably my favorite one of all.
So, happy First Day of Spring 2014 everyone. Here are photos I took on a trip to Palm Springs not long ago. Enjoy!
I grew up in Northern California so palms trees were part of my daily surroundings. I still don't know the botanical names for them. There's just tall ones....
And short ones.
And in Palm Springs, you might find some metal ones. (Monkeys seem to love 'em.)
Saturday, March 8, 2014
Plants With Benefits ;)
This charming book has something for everyone.
- For those who have a passion for a good story, Yoest explains the folk lore surrounding 50 plants, including avocados (bad news for Aztec virgins), celery (Casanova's secret weapon), and fennel (straight from the Kama Sutra).
- For ardent gardeners, there are botanical descriptions and tips for growing these plants.
- For the lusty cook, there are recipes.
- And for the lover in all of us, there is that all important information: "Why It Works."
Sunday, February 9, 2014
In Spite of Challenges, the 2014 Northwest Flower and Garden Show Was a Treat
You have to feel a bit sorry for the organizers of the Northwest Flower and Garden Show which opened at the Washington State Convention Center in Seattle on Wednesday and runs until 6 p.m. tonight. This show, the second largest gardening show in the US, has been described as a "Disneyland for gardeners." Every February it draws people from all over the region, busloads in fact, offering a break from winter weather and a welcome bit of inspiration, reminding us that spring is on the way.
But unlike years past, the opening day of the show was hardly mentioned on the local news. That day's BIG story was the Seahawks Super Bowl celebration and parade that brought 750,000 people to the streets of Seattle. I can't imagine how people working and/or attending the show on Wednesday were able to get in or out of the Convention Center.
After that, it seemed like things would go back to normal. But then weather forecasters started talking about snow. A lot of us (myself included) didn't think too much about that. Snow is uncommon in Seattle in February.
I was scheduled to work at the show yesterday afternoon, in the South Seattle Community College Landscape Horticulture booth. When I left my house for the Convention Center, the sun was out and I hardly felt like I needed a coat. My friends and I joked about the snow predictions. I worked my shift, and toured the show, delighted that it wasn't very crowded. Maybe people were scared off by the weather forecasts? If so, that was good for attendees, but not so good for show organizers.
But unlike years past, the opening day of the show was hardly mentioned on the local news. That day's BIG story was the Seahawks Super Bowl celebration and parade that brought 750,000 people to the streets of Seattle. I can't imagine how people working and/or attending the show on Wednesday were able to get in or out of the Convention Center.
After that, it seemed like things would go back to normal. But then weather forecasters started talking about snow. A lot of us (myself included) didn't think too much about that. Snow is uncommon in Seattle in February.
I was scheduled to work at the show yesterday afternoon, in the South Seattle Community College Landscape Horticulture booth. When I left my house for the Convention Center, the sun was out and I hardly felt like I needed a coat. My friends and I joked about the snow predictions. I worked my shift, and toured the show, delighted that it wasn't very crowded. Maybe people were scared off by the weather forecasts? If so, that was good for attendees, but not so good for show organizers.
Whatever the reason, it was nice to be able to move around without encountering human traffic jams. There were some delightful display gardens this year and being able to get up close was a treat.
I came home at dinnertime, the prospect of snow pretty much forgotten. But then, around 6:30, it started to snow. We got about 3 inches last night. In spite of above freezing temps during the day, a lot of snow is still on the ground. And in a couple of hours, exhibitors will start the process of breaking down the show and moving all those trees, shrubs, gardening products, structures, yards of topsoil and mulch, and gigantic granite boulders out of the Convention Center. Having been part of that process in the past, I know it isn't fun under the best of conditions. My sympathies all around.
The parade and the snow storm aside, it was a great show. I hope you got a chance to attend.
Monday, November 4, 2013
Kitchen Garden Inspiration from Chateau Villandry
I've grown vegetables and I know that "working" gardens, the ones that produce our food, aren't always picture perfect. They start out in spring looking orderly, but as the season progresses and gardeners get bored or busy with other things, the garden begins to go a bit wild. Vines wander, weeds creep in, lettuce bolts, and yellow leaves tattle on gardeners who water too much or too little.
Before my visit to Villandry, I thought of gardens as being either ornamental, planted and arranged to bring beauty into a space, or edible, planted for the purpose of food production. Never the twain to meet. But leave it to the French, with their love of all things beautiful and delicious, to combine the two.
I was there in September, the time of year when vegetable gardens often look their worst. But here, with beds edged with boxwood, flowers and espalliered apple trees, the garden looks tidy and thriving.
Villandry's kitchen garden is all organic. Gardeners use non-chemical techniques both old and new to maintain the health of the soil and plant material.
It's all here: cabbages, kale, beans, various greens, leeks, berries, dwarf fruit trees and more. I saw pumpkins and squash being harvested when I was there. Rose standards mark the corners of beds. Annuals and perennials provide cutting flowers and seasonal color.
Where does all this bounty go? The chateau restaurant, La Doulce Terrasse, offers a seasonal menu featuring produce from the garden and the local area.
If you would like to visit Villandry and enjoy its gardens, information is available on their official website. Even if you can't visit in person, you'll want to take a look to find inspiration for your own kitchen garden. Bon appetit!
Monday, September 2, 2013
How To Build a Rain Garden
Lately, I've been learning a lot about "green storm water infrastructure" (in other words, methods of managing storm water runoff) as I have been writing on my other blog about the environmental impact of a proposed development in my neighborhood.
In my search for a clear detailed explanation of how to build a rain garden, I came across this video. It was produced by Washington State University and does an excellent job of addressing just about any question you might have. Enjoy!
In my search for a clear detailed explanation of how to build a rain garden, I came across this video. It was produced by Washington State University and does an excellent job of addressing just about any question you might have. Enjoy!
Thursday, May 9, 2013
Do Houseplants Get Lonely?
One of my sons gave me a peace lily (Spathiphyllum sp.) 15 years ago. It has always produced healthy green leaves, but it hasn't flowered in probably 10 years. For many years, it was the only houseplant I had. I keep it mostly because it was a gift from my son.
Three weeks ago, a friend gave me another peace lily. As you can see, it is very vigorous and full of blooms. I put it next to the older lily while I made space for it across the room.
A few days ago, I was astonished to see that the older plant is starting to bloom!
Three weeks ago, a friend gave me another peace lily. As you can see, it is very vigorous and full of blooms. I put it next to the older lily while I made space for it across the room.
A few days ago, I was astonished to see that the older plant is starting to bloom!
I don't think this is a coincidence. My years of gardening experience have convinced me that plants communicate with each other. I suspect that the presence of the younger plant has inspired my old one, reminding it of how much fun it is to bloom and thrive.
Do you have a similar plant story? If so, please share it.
And if you are skeptical about plant communication, you might want to read this article about plant survival mechanisms. Just as intriguing is new evidence that plants can "talk and hear."
Wednesday, February 6, 2013
How Will Your Garden Grow in 2013?
What are you going to do in the garden this year? This is the time of year to read, dream, make plans, change them, write lists, draw sketches, and stare out the windows at your garden. While you are imagining all the wonderful things to come, you are laying the groundwork (so to speak) for a successful gardening season.
Here are resources that will help you decide what you want to do when those first perfect gardening days of the year arrive.
Steve Solomon's book Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades is a classic. Vegetable gardening is different in our Maritime climate than in other parts of the country, so general gardening books aren't that useful. Let this book be your guide to the plant varieties and techniques that will work here. Just as importantly, Solomon explains care of the soil, including composting, fertilizing and efficient water use. Healthy soil = healthy produce.
What seeds should you plant? Consider those from Botanical Interests, a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate. They sell GMO-free seeds, many heirlooms, and their seed packets are so full of useful information, you'll want to keep them around for reference. Visit their website for helpful articles, special sales and occasional contests.
If you are a visual learner, you may find the help you need at The Northwest Flower and Garden Show. This is the show's 25th year of providing gardening inspiration with stunning display gardens, seminars and so much more. The show runs February 20-24 at the Washington State Convention Center in Seattle.
For gardeners who like a "calendar" approach to planning, the Maritime Northwest Garden Guide is ideal. The content is arranged month-by-month, listing what to do each month and including tips on when to plant seeds, soil amendments, organic fertilizers, pest control and lots more. I wish Seattle Tilth would release a new edition of this valuable little book, but you can get used copies on Amazon for just $12.99.
Are you planning to add raised beds or compost bins this year? Visit Eartheasy.com, a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate, for how-to information, inspiration and products for sustainable gardening. Remember, they plant a tree for every order placed!
In my design practice, I have used my copy of The Pacific Northwest Gardener's Book of Lists so much that it is literally falling apart. I have to tape pages back into it every time I look something up. This book is just what it says, a collection of plant lists for just about every conceivable condition. Wet, dry, full sun, shade, annual, perennial, ground cover, tree, shrub - they're all there. This guide will really help you choose the right plants for the right places.
OK, it's time to get started. There's something so uplifting about garden planning. Enjoy the process.
It's February and Time to Prune Roses
Ready To Take Out Your Lawn?
Here are resources that will help you decide what you want to do when those first perfect gardening days of the year arrive.
Steve Solomon's book Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades is a classic. Vegetable gardening is different in our Maritime climate than in other parts of the country, so general gardening books aren't that useful. Let this book be your guide to the plant varieties and techniques that will work here. Just as importantly, Solomon explains care of the soil, including composting, fertilizing and efficient water use. Healthy soil = healthy produce.
What seeds should you plant? Consider those from Botanical Interests, a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate. They sell GMO-free seeds, many heirlooms, and their seed packets are so full of useful information, you'll want to keep them around for reference. Visit their website for helpful articles, special sales and occasional contests.
If you are a visual learner, you may find the help you need at The Northwest Flower and Garden Show. This is the show's 25th year of providing gardening inspiration with stunning display gardens, seminars and so much more. The show runs February 20-24 at the Washington State Convention Center in Seattle.
For gardeners who like a "calendar" approach to planning, the Maritime Northwest Garden Guide is ideal. The content is arranged month-by-month, listing what to do each month and including tips on when to plant seeds, soil amendments, organic fertilizers, pest control and lots more. I wish Seattle Tilth would release a new edition of this valuable little book, but you can get used copies on Amazon for just $12.99.
Are you planning to add raised beds or compost bins this year? Visit Eartheasy.com, a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate, for how-to information, inspiration and products for sustainable gardening. Remember, they plant a tree for every order placed!
In my design practice, I have used my copy of The Pacific Northwest Gardener's Book of Lists so much that it is literally falling apart. I have to tape pages back into it every time I look something up. This book is just what it says, a collection of plant lists for just about every conceivable condition. Wet, dry, full sun, shade, annual, perennial, ground cover, tree, shrub - they're all there. This guide will really help you choose the right plants for the right places.
OK, it's time to get started. There's something so uplifting about garden planning. Enjoy the process.
Related posts:
When Is the Right Time to Prune?It's February and Time to Prune Roses
Ready To Take Out Your Lawn?
Saturday, July 21, 2012
The Problem With the Privet Hedge
I never had nasal allergies until a year ago. Then, in mid-summer when everyone else's allergy symptoms were easing up, a neighbor of mine and I started having symptoms. Neither of us had ever had seasonal allergies before so it took a while to realize that was what we had. Fortunately, our symptoms were fairly mild and we were able to get relief with typical over-the-counter meds.
This year, I expected to have some problems in spring, but I was fine through all the tree and grass pollen outpourings. Then again, about a week ago, I started having symptoms. Levels of tree, grass and weed pollens are low right now and friends of mine who suffer with them are feeling much better than they did a couple of months ago. So I wondered what it is that I am sensitive to.
Yesterday I might have figured it out. I have a section of privet hedge (Ligustrum japonicum) along one side of my yard, which has just come into full bloom.
The past two springs have been particularly rainy and the hedge has responded by producing record crops of big, creamy white panicles (flowers) in mid-July. They are pretty and the bees love them, but as far as I am concerned they smell terrible. Since this hedge is close to my windows, which I have open most of the time in summer, and close to my garden, where I like to spend my time, I decided to cut off a bunch of the flowers to reduce the odor.
That helped. And after dumping a couple of buckets of blooms into the yard waste bin, I thought my nasal symptoms were eased a bit, too. I wondered then if privet pollen is something people have allergic reactions to. So I did a google search. And sure enough!
Privet pollen is known to trigger allergic reactions, asthma, eczema and hay fever. In fact, it is illegal to grow or sell privet plants in New Zealand because of the health problems it causes.
I'm not planning to take down the hedge anytime soon, but I will be a lot more diligent from now on about removing those stinky flowers as soon as they appear.
This year, I expected to have some problems in spring, but I was fine through all the tree and grass pollen outpourings. Then again, about a week ago, I started having symptoms. Levels of tree, grass and weed pollens are low right now and friends of mine who suffer with them are feeling much better than they did a couple of months ago. So I wondered what it is that I am sensitive to.
Yesterday I might have figured it out. I have a section of privet hedge (Ligustrum japonicum) along one side of my yard, which has just come into full bloom.
That helped. And after dumping a couple of buckets of blooms into the yard waste bin, I thought my nasal symptoms were eased a bit, too. I wondered then if privet pollen is something people have allergic reactions to. So I did a google search. And sure enough!
Privet pollen is known to trigger allergic reactions, asthma, eczema and hay fever. In fact, it is illegal to grow or sell privet plants in New Zealand because of the health problems it causes.
I'm not planning to take down the hedge anytime soon, but I will be a lot more diligent from now on about removing those stinky flowers as soon as they appear.
Saturday, June 30, 2012
The Advantages of Starting Vegetables From Seed After the Summer Solstice
Many of us have been there. We start out with great intentions. We're going to grow our own food. We have plans and tools and seed catalogs. We can almost taste the luscious vegetables we are going to harvest from our gardens.
And then stuff happens. Other things come up that require our attention. The weather is too something - hot, cold, wet, dry - and we don't get the garden planted. Or maybe we do get it planted, but our crops "bolt," start going to seed too early, resulting in disappointing flavors and textures. So here it is, the end of June, it seems too late to start a garden and we give up on our dream of growing vegetables.
But according to Ryan, the Garden Coach at Botanical Interests (a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate), many vegetables do better when planted now, after the summer solstice. These include: vegetables in the Brassica family (broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), vegetables that form heads (lettuce, radicchio and others), and vegetables that like cooler conditions (carrots, beets, spinach, etc.)
Ryan explains why this is a good time to be sowing vegetable seeds in this article, "Second Chances." There are several factors, including day length and soil temperature, that make it likely that planting now will result in a better harvest than was possible earlier in the year. And of course, if you need seed, Botanical Interests is an excellent source. They carry many organic and heirloom varieties. Absolutely NO GMOs.
And then stuff happens. Other things come up that require our attention. The weather is too something - hot, cold, wet, dry - and we don't get the garden planted. Or maybe we do get it planted, but our crops "bolt," start going to seed too early, resulting in disappointing flavors and textures. So here it is, the end of June, it seems too late to start a garden and we give up on our dream of growing vegetables.
But according to Ryan, the Garden Coach at Botanical Interests (a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate), many vegetables do better when planted now, after the summer solstice. These include: vegetables in the Brassica family (broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), vegetables that form heads (lettuce, radicchio and others), and vegetables that like cooler conditions (carrots, beets, spinach, etc.)
Ryan explains why this is a good time to be sowing vegetable seeds in this article, "Second Chances." There are several factors, including day length and soil temperature, that make it likely that planting now will result in a better harvest than was possible earlier in the year. And of course, if you need seed, Botanical Interests is an excellent source. They carry many organic and heirloom varieties. Absolutely NO GMOs.
Friday, May 18, 2012
3 Ways to Deal with Root Weevils
Like slugs, root weevils are nocturnal creatures. To catch them chewing on your plants, you will have to go out at night with a flashlight. In fact, some gardeners do just that. They put on rubber gloves, grab a bucket and a flashlight, and go patroling the garden, picking weevils off their rhodies.
Personally, I'm not a fan of picking bugs off of anything at any time of day. I'm also not a fan of using pesticides. So what are the alternatives?
One, do nothing. Root weevils will not kill your rhododendrons. The worst that will happen is that you will have a lot of notched leaves.
Two, do something to prevent the weevils from climbing up the branches of the plant. Root weevils can't fly. The only way they can reach the leaves is to walk up the branches. Try coating the base of the plant with something sticky like Tanglefoot. The weevils can't get past that sticky barrier and your leaves will be safe from harm.
Three, plant rhododendrons that root weevils don't like. They won't bother any rhodie with fuzz, or indumentum, under the leaves, such as members of the Rh. yakushimanum family.
Need more ideas on ways to de-bug your garden? Check out Eartheasy's article on natural garden pest control.
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Trapping Slugs with Beer
The slugs are out in force right about now. You don't always see them, being the nocturnal creatures that they are. But the next morning, you certainly do see the damage done to the garden.
If you are looking for a way to rid yourself of these pests without using toxic chemicals, consider installing beer traps in your garden. Slugs love beer! If you sink a container of beer into the ground so that slugs can crawl into it, they'll eagerly drown their sorrows, and themselves, in the brew. All you have to do is come by every day or so, scoop out the dead slugs and top up the beer supply.
You probably have all the "equipment" you need for making traps in your kitchen right now. A glass jar, a large empty tuna can, a plastic margarine tub - any of these will make a fine trap. Next you'll want something to use for a lid, as shown in the drawing below, that will serve as an umbrella. Then dig holes and install the containers, sinking all but the top 1/4" into the ground. (Leaving a bit of a lip exposed at the top will keep rain from running into the trap.) Now you're ready to add the beer - the cheaper the better - slugs aren't fussy.
If plying slugs with alcohol doesn't appeal to you, there are many other non-toxic ways to protect your plants from slugs. Our friends at Eartheasy have a long list of effective methods, which feature, among other things: garlic, copper strips, seaweed, coffee, or adjusting your watering habits. Click here to read the article.
Whatever method you choose, you'll be able to protect your garden without having to use toxic slug baits.
If you are looking for a way to rid yourself of these pests without using toxic chemicals, consider installing beer traps in your garden. Slugs love beer! If you sink a container of beer into the ground so that slugs can crawl into it, they'll eagerly drown their sorrows, and themselves, in the brew. All you have to do is come by every day or so, scoop out the dead slugs and top up the beer supply.
You probably have all the "equipment" you need for making traps in your kitchen right now. A glass jar, a large empty tuna can, a plastic margarine tub - any of these will make a fine trap. Next you'll want something to use for a lid, as shown in the drawing below, that will serve as an umbrella. Then dig holes and install the containers, sinking all but the top 1/4" into the ground. (Leaving a bit of a lip exposed at the top will keep rain from running into the trap.) Now you're ready to add the beer - the cheaper the better - slugs aren't fussy.
If plying slugs with alcohol doesn't appeal to you, there are many other non-toxic ways to protect your plants from slugs. Our friends at Eartheasy have a long list of effective methods, which feature, among other things: garlic, copper strips, seaweed, coffee, or adjusting your watering habits. Click here to read the article.
Whatever method you choose, you'll be able to protect your garden without having to use toxic slug baits.
Monday, April 30, 2012
A Living Salad Wall
A neighbor of mine is interested in installing a vertical garden, or living wall, to cover a concrete wall in his back yard. As he and I have been doing research and talking about this project, I've become inspired to do a little experimenting of my own.
I bought one of Bright Green's GroVert living wall planters (Amazon affiliate link) to see see how their system works. This 10-cell, polymer panel measures 8" wide, 18" tall and 4" deep. Multiple panels can be linked together to create a solid living wall.
Here's the fun part - planting! I decided to fill my panel with salad greens and a few herbs. But there are lots of other possibilities, including succulents, foliage plants and annuals for sun or shade, depending on where you plan to install your vertical garden.
For my "living salad wall" I wanted lots of color and texture, plus I wanted organic starts since I plan to make salad eventually with what I've planted. So I headed to West Seattle Nursery to see what I could find. I came away with lettuces: 'Wildfire Mix,' 'Salad Bowl Red,' 'Winter Density,' a spicy mesculun mix, and endive. I also got 4" starts of cilantro, Italian parsley, French thyme and and 'Apricot Trifle' nasturtium.
I realized as I planted these that it might have been better to have planted less in each cell, and filled in with more potting soil. It is tempting, though, to do just what I did, because a 4" pony-pack fits really nicely into each cell. But no worries, I can easily revise the planting if necessary as the season progresses.
OK, with the planting done, the next step was to water thoroughly and let the panel sit at a slight angle to drain before mounting. While the panel was draining, I installed the bracket to hold the panel onto my fence.
You'll have to furnish your own fasteners. Fortunately, I had some galvanized wood screws on hand.
To top it off, I added an irrigator box.
I bought one of Bright Green's GroVert living wall planters (Amazon affiliate link) to see see how their system works. This 10-cell, polymer panel measures 8" wide, 18" tall and 4" deep. Multiple panels can be linked together to create a solid living wall.
The cells of the planter are set at a 45 degree angle to keep water and soil from falling out once the panel is mounted on the wall. Very clever!
At the base of each cell is a "moisture mat" - another smart idea - that holds water and keeps plant roots from drying out.
For my "living salad wall" I wanted lots of color and texture, plus I wanted organic starts since I plan to make salad eventually with what I've planted. So I headed to West Seattle Nursery to see what I could find. I came away with lettuces: 'Wildfire Mix,' 'Salad Bowl Red,' 'Winter Density,' a spicy mesculun mix, and endive. I also got 4" starts of cilantro, Italian parsley, French thyme and and 'Apricot Trifle' nasturtium.
I realized as I planted these that it might have been better to have planted less in each cell, and filled in with more potting soil. It is tempting, though, to do just what I did, because a 4" pony-pack fits really nicely into each cell. But no worries, I can easily revise the planting if necessary as the season progresses.
OK, with the planting done, the next step was to water thoroughly and let the panel sit at a slight angle to drain before mounting. While the panel was draining, I installed the bracket to hold the panel onto my fence.
And here it is - my living salad wall!
To top it off, I added an irrigator box.
This little box mounts on top of the panel and holds a quart of water. (I'm showing it here with the lid open. After adding water, you'll want to close the lid to keep dirt from getting in.) Small holes in the bottom of the box let water slowly trickle down into the planter, keeping the plants and the moisture pads irrigated.
It will be fun to see how this works out. As with any gardening experiment, I expect some plants to do well and others will need to be replaced. If I get a few salads out of it, I'll consider it a success. Regardless, the planter and irrigator will still be around for me to use in another season.
Saturday, April 28, 2012
Changing My Mind About Spirea
I've never been a fan of spirea. When I hear the name, what comes to mind is one of the big, sprawling bridal veil varieties (Spirea cantoniensis, S. prunifolia, or S. x vanhouttei). These plants produce masses of white flowers in spring that, to me, smell unpleasantly musty. I don't want to be around them.
But there is a mound form of spirea (Spirea japonica) that has won me over. There are several plants in this group, many of which stay below 3' tall, all with striking foliage. Cultivars such as 'Goldflame,' 'Goldmound,' and 'Limemound,' certainly live up to their names in the garden. I've been admiring some of these on my regular trips to the local PCC store, where they are planted in the dry stream bed garden out front.
Here you see examples of what I assume are either 'Goldmound' or 'Goldflame' in the PCC garden.
But there is a mound form of spirea (Spirea japonica) that has won me over. There are several plants in this group, many of which stay below 3' tall, all with striking foliage. Cultivars such as 'Goldflame,' 'Goldmound,' and 'Limemound,' certainly live up to their names in the garden. I've been admiring some of these on my regular trips to the local PCC store, where they are planted in the dry stream bed garden out front.
So it happened that yesterday I was working in a corner of my yard that I haven't been happy with for a while. Most of the plants work well together, but there's a spot where nothing has quite fit or been able to thrive. I took out the plants that weren't working and weeded the bed. While I worked, I thought about what might fill in that area and pull it all together. Then I headed up to West Seattle Nursery for more inspiration. Here's what I came home with:
This is Spirea japonica 'Magic Carpet,' a Pacific Northwest Great Plant Pick. It will hold this yellow/chartreuse color all season and will have pink flowers in summer. This vivid foliage, edged with bits of bronze, red and coral, appears to be lit from within. Mature size will be about 2' x 2'.
I've planted it next to 'Red Fred' heather. We'll see how they get along.
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