tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52706368012328180532024-03-12T19:55:38.745-07:00Seattle Garden IdeasMarie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comBlogger74125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-29430831228026737872016-06-12T10:11:00.000-07:002016-06-26T09:53:34.199-07:00A Dozen Evergreen Trees for Small Gardens<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhztVeoSCiaQT79FIaVLTIaWxDdI2CjAcfwWRoRkM2LWkLDuNy_mjyBfhxrsKUtXiKSzdczrl0H637zYecAgYBHqIcNcHEDzBUPNuA1P6y5fxDpzXyHE5yC9zrj7-kcro1UqyaXTDuaNy90/s1600/s'berry+fruit+red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhztVeoSCiaQT79FIaVLTIaWxDdI2CjAcfwWRoRkM2LWkLDuNy_mjyBfhxrsKUtXiKSzdczrl0H637zYecAgYBHqIcNcHEDzBUPNuA1P6y5fxDpzXyHE5yC9zrj7-kcro1UqyaXTDuaNy90/s320/s'berry+fruit+red.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strawberry Tree flowers and fruit</td></tr>
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<b><a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2010/10/favorite-plants-strawberry-trees.html">1. Arbutus unedo 'Compacta' - Compact strawberry tree</a></b><br />
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Size: 8' tall by 8' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Related to our native madrone tree; peeling, reddish bark; dark green foliage; clusters of white, bell-shaped flowers in spring; red fruit in fall resembling strawberries</blockquote>
<b>2. Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Pendula' - Weeping Alaska cedar</b><br />
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Size: to 20' tall; width variable</blockquote>
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Comments: Choose carefully to get the tree shape you want; some are pencil-shaped, others spread 6- 8' wide; yellow-green foliage; weeping habit; Northwest native tree</blockquote>
<b>3. Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Gracilis' - Slender Hinoki cypress</b><br />
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Size: to 20' tall x 5-6' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: There are several types of Hinoki cypress, all beautiful, small trees that work well in urban gardens; dark green flat sprays of foliage with nodding tips; some varieties have gold edged new foliage; slow growing</blockquote>
<b>4. Cryptomeria japonica 'Elegans Compacta' - Plume cedar</b><br />
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Size: to 15' tall</blockquote>
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Comments: 'Elegans Compacta' is much smaller than the species; grey-green foliage turns coppery-red or purple in cold weather</blockquote>
<b>5. Cupressus sempervirens - Italian cypress</b><br />
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Size: 25' tall x 3' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: 'Glauca' - blue Italian cypress has bluish foliage; 'Stricta' is green, also very narrow. These are classic Mediterranean garden trees; great accents</blockquote>
<b>6. Garrya eliptica 'Issaquahensis' - Coast silk tassel</b><br />
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Size: 10' tall to 20' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Northwest native tree; hard to find but well worth the search; 10" long catkins in winter, very striking</blockquote>
<b>7. Laurus nobilis - Sweet bay</b><br />
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Size: 12' - 20' tall and wide, depending on conditions</blockquote>
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Comments: Once this tree gets going, you'll have all the bay leaves you'll ever need for cooking; upright, column-shaped tree with aromatic leaves; good in containers</blockquote>
<b>8. Magnolia 'Little Gem' </b><br />
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Size: up to 20' tall x 8' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Column shape; glossy green leaves with brown, felty undersides; creamy white flowers in summer</blockquote>
<b>9. Pinus contorta contorta- Shore pine</b><br />
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Size: 20-30' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Northwest native tree; open growth habit; takes sea coast conditions well, gets its name "contorta" because of the shape these trees take in the winds off the water; tolerates salt spray</blockquote>
<b>10. Pinus flexuosa 'Vanderwolf' - Vanderwolf pine</b><br />
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Size: 18'+ tall x 6-8' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Dense, pyramidal shape, blue-green foliage</blockquote>
<b>11. Pinus strobus 'Nana' - Dwarf white pine</b><br />
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Size: to 7' tall x 5' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Very slow growing; long needles with bluish cast; graceful; may have weeping habit</blockquote>
<b>12. Tsuga mertensiana - Mountain hemlock</b><br />
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Size: 20 ' tall x 8-10' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Graceful, layered growth habit; blue green foliage; very slow growing; native to high mountains from Alaska to the Sierras in California; does best with some protection from hot western sun exposure</blockquote>
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-51696260396831140742015-03-07T11:01:00.000-08:002016-06-18T10:43:05.025-07:00Growing Cannabis in SeattleI recently had the opportunity to tour the cannabis growing operation at <b><a href="http://newleafent.com/">New Leaf Enterprises</a></b> in Seattle. I've done some propagation and greenhouse work in the past, so I found the tour fascinating.<br />
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However, seeing how cannabis is grown for commercial use isn't something the average person might get to do. Although the sale and use of medical and recreational marijuana is legal in Washington State, you won't be seeing acres of marijuana planted in open ground any time soon. According to state regulations, each plant must be registered and accounted for throughout its lifecycle, and it's hard to protect plants from poaching when they're grown outdoors.<br />
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Plus, indoor operations can control everything: heat, humidity, water, nutrients, and day length (i.e. periods of light and darkness). Not surprisingly, users say that the quality of products grown indoors is superior to what is grown outdoors.<br />
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If you've ever been curious about how these plants are grown and harvested, and no one has invited you inside their operation to show you around, here's the next best thing - a video tour inside New Leaf Enterprises, home of Dama Cannabis. Take a look.<br />
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-22325770427689702162014-05-03T11:00:00.000-07:002018-02-20T18:23:57.889-08:00Save Your Back With Raised BedsIf you've decided that you want to turn part of your lawn into a vegetable garden, where do you start?<br />
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Here's one way to go about it. First, rent a sod cutter or use a mattock to take out the grass. (Be sure to take up all of the roots or, before you know it, grass will start growing again in your new garden.) Then turn the soil, using either a shovel or a rototiller. After that, amend the soil with compost and perhaps test the soil to see if there are other micro-nutrients that need to be added. When you have worked all of that into the soil, then rake it out, break up any remaining clods, and prepare the bed for planting.<br />
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OR - skip all of that and build raised beds right on top of the grass.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnb_R2Z4qaTzsUc4WNr4ooqeKcvY4E1g4ZnH_0e-FeMoFEhGiRfzy4VtkVtWgTlYtXJlKk6ZEDuPE1KPxbvxSH2HSjff6V7sF6G2_TtACp2SHYp21PnF9hbZpdUp4MFggSvyBM-jutCeJn/s1600/Raised+bed+frames.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnb_R2Z4qaTzsUc4WNr4ooqeKcvY4E1g4ZnH_0e-FeMoFEhGiRfzy4VtkVtWgTlYtXJlKk6ZEDuPE1KPxbvxSH2HSjff6V7sF6G2_TtACp2SHYp21PnF9hbZpdUp4MFggSvyBM-jutCeJn/s1600/Raised+bed+frames.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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You can build frames like the ones shown above, using cedar 1x6 planks and 2x2 corner posts. These particular frames are about 18" deep, deep enough for root crops like potatoes or carrots. But beds don't have to be that deep - 8" to 12" is adequate if you intend to grow herbs and flowers.<br />
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To smother the grass so that it doesn't come up into your raised bed garden, try this simple sheet composting method. First, if the grass is dried out, splash a little water on it. You want it to be moist as though it had just rained. Now sprinkle a very thin layer of compost over the grass. Over that, lay newspaper, 4 or 5 sheets thick, being careful to completely cover all of the grass. Now spread another layer of compost over the top of the newspaper and sprinkle a bit of water over it. Then add clean topsoil to fill the raised bed and plant your garden.<br />
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The newspaper will keep the grass from growing and the micro-organisms in the compost will break down the dead grass and newspaper. It takes about a year for this process to be complete. In the meantime, over the top of it all, you are growing and harvesting food for your table.<br />
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-17717845038191303252014-03-26T16:01:00.000-07:002014-03-26T16:02:39.129-07:00The Magic of MulchWhen I do consultations, I get a lot of questions about mulch. First of all, what IS mulch? Is it compost, bark, what?<br />
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The answer is that mulch is a blanket - it is any material that you use to cover the bare soil in your garden beds. It could be compost, bark, fallen leaves, pine needles, a composted combination of sawdust and manure, even rocks or crushed glass (I do not recommend the last choice in particular, but I have seen it done) - anything that covers the soil while allowing water and air to penetrate.<br />
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Mulch is usually applied in a layer 1-1/2 to 2" deep. This depth will help hold moisture in the soil so you won't have to water as often. It will also do a good job of keeping weeds under control. I believe that weeding without mulching is a waste of your time. When you have weeded and loosened the soil, you've created a perfect place for weed seed blowing by on a spring breeze to land and germinate. A thick layer of mulch is not as "germination friendly" as your freshly worked soil, so it keeps new weeds from getting established. If there is already weed seed in the ground, which is often the case in areas that have been weedy for a long time, it has trouble germinating if it is smothered by a good layer of mulch.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKPAbHvRUDg3qa4qoYwTcuZ5Gh40oDuiLMXgCs4hUlRt7gUSS3QzgpZbFKpZ_Pymr84slS2x56-D91McZF_33VmlL2dk10_f1w0HSn1bC3THkJXtiesNXOmYScyr9eADWto6pCYRKpngfC/s1600/Heather+before+weeding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKPAbHvRUDg3qa4qoYwTcuZ5Gh40oDuiLMXgCs4hUlRt7gUSS3QzgpZbFKpZ_Pymr84slS2x56-D91McZF_33VmlL2dk10_f1w0HSn1bC3THkJXtiesNXOmYScyr9eADWto6pCYRKpngfC/s1600/Heather+before+weeding.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather bed before weeding</td></tr>
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When people tell me that they used a mulch "but the weeds came right back," it's because one of two things happened.<br />
1) They didn't put down enough mulch. A mere half inch is not enough.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8A9oYD7QZOJ-eTe80OSVKtFuLKnCDCuarsoaKGMhOiO9Uy5L8ElLM4uwANQPViA-51zd36MP5QeI0ynwR-r3UfM3ZrpGmAXcoDzRF1rKMhp0Yr8LRg6rl36ZM8oSzCfnXfZANhOrjQR-a/s1600/Heather+after+weeding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8A9oYD7QZOJ-eTe80OSVKtFuLKnCDCuarsoaKGMhOiO9Uy5L8ElLM4uwANQPViA-51zd36MP5QeI0ynwR-r3UfM3ZrpGmAXcoDzRF1rKMhp0Yr8LRg6rl36ZM8oSzCfnXfZANhOrjQR-a/s1600/Heather+after+weeding.jpg" height="245" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather bed after weeding and mulching with Steerco</td></tr>
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2) They failed to weed thoroughly. If the roots are still in the ground, the weeds will regrow quickly. Pulling the tops off isn't weeding. You have to use a hand cultivator or soil knife and grub out those roots. In areas that have long been home to weeds, a couple of seasons of diligent weeding will be necessary to get things under control. Each year will be easier and by season 3, you'll be pleased to see how quickly you can get your beds weeded and looking good.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho8R6Z_pIZhnft_Mi24hHND9xs6wAa80ycJ40fpnoqE_-ZBkR1MvULO25BpWG3lX2MoYiUBilKZpic1kmoTXz2qcAQNn4GNB5U527hLbf_8S8ys2_UlA1shElKCniUX5v4vxmwui1wAdGO/s1600/Beauty+bark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho8R6Z_pIZhnft_Mi24hHND9xs6wAa80ycJ40fpnoqE_-ZBkR1MvULO25BpWG3lX2MoYiUBilKZpic1kmoTXz2qcAQNn4GNB5U527hLbf_8S8ys2_UlA1shElKCniUX5v4vxmwui1wAdGO/s1600/Beauty+bark.jpg" height="223" width="320" /></a></div>
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OK, now you know why you should use a mulch. So the question is: which one? A lot of people use bark, but I don't recommend it. Bark is not composted. After you spread it out over your garden beds, it will start to break down and as it composts itself it takes nitrogen from the soil to complete that process. That means there is less nitrogen available for your plants to use and they end up stressed. Notice the leaf color on plants sitting in a sea of bark. The leaves are often yellowish instead of deep green - and that's because they lack nitrogen. To keep that from happening, use a mulch that has already been composted.<br />
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(That said, I do like bark as a place holder. If you have a spot overrun by weeds that you plan sometime in the future to turn into garden space, weed it well and put down a thick layer of bark. It will keep the weeds down and when you are ready to use the space, you can plow the composted bark into the soil. Thick layers of coarsely chopped bark also make fine garden paths between raised beds.)<br />
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That narrows the choice down to compost (homemade or commercial) or products like Steerco and Gro-co. Steerco is a combination of composted sawdust and steer manure. Gro-co is composted sawdust and municipal sludge (in other words treated and composted sewage). Some people have no problem with Gro-co, others are creeped out by it. It is completely safe. The only possible objection I might have is that there might be a higher (but still very small) concentration of heavy metals in it.<br />
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My preference is Steerco, sold in Seattle by <b><a href="http://www.sawdustsupply.com/">Sawdust Supply</a></b>, the company that provides all the soil and mulch for the Northwest Flower and Garden Show. I've used countless yards of this material in the past 20 years and have always been happy with the result. It is already composted and contains microorganisms that perk up tired garden beds. It helps add structure to sandy soils and loosens clay soils - provided that you make it part of your annual bed clean up and maintenance. It does all the things you want a mulch to do, plus it has no odor and it looks great. It makes the humblest garden look professionally done.<br />
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On top of all that, Steerco is a bargain. A bag weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 75 lbs. and costs about $5, including tax. Steerco is also available by the yard. You can pick it up yourself or have it delivered.<br />
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If you need to figure out how much mulch, bark or topsoil you need for a project, <b><a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2011/09/how-much-mulch.html">here's a handy chart</a></b>.Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-29383872182421879292014-03-20T13:18:00.000-07:002014-03-20T13:18:36.795-07:00Real Palm Trees of Southern CaliforniaDoes it seem odd that I am posting photos of trees in California? Well, when you consider that this has been a long, cold winter, one that refuses to leave, getting lost in images of blue skies and warm weather is a welcome distraction. Am I right?<br />
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So, happy First Day of Spring 2014 everyone. Here are photos I took on a trip to Palm Springs not long ago. Enjoy!<br />
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I grew up in Northern California so palms trees were part of my daily surroundings. I still don't know the botanical names for them. There's just tall ones....</div>
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And short ones.</div>
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And in Palm Springs, you might find some metal ones. (Monkeys seem to love 'em.)</div>
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And then there are the camera flare palms. I don't know how I got this shot and I'm sure I couldn't replicate it. It is probably my favorite one of all.<br />
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<br />Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-30937110743433389062014-03-08T14:46:00.001-08:002022-12-04T11:51:20.818-08:00Plants With Benefits ;)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Plants-With-Benefits-Uninhibited-Aphrodisiac/dp/0989268802/ref=as_li_tf_til?tag=hort-20&linkCode=w00&creativeASIN=0989268802" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcp3rztJdfG5ZbC41efGx-VbpyRfVxnAbGqEi4tfuFRduxBNz2JESElOR7h5hNCe3Kdrz6PUC0aQ2HWD0YDc6QI92gfSxAnn-ZmOU04oE8tyjZX293OwNwAlvf5vfucPkP2ZsigWeb4XvQ/s1600/Plants+w:+Benefits.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
You probably know that a tomato is called a "love apple." But do you know why? The answer to that question and pretty much anything else you want to know about the aphrodisiac qualities of herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers can be found in Helen Yoest's book, "<b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Plants-With-Benefits-Uninhibited-Aphrodisiac/dp/0989268802/ref=as_li_tf_til?tag=hort-20&linkCode=w00&creativeASIN=0989268802">Plants With Benefits</a></b>."<br />
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This charming book has something for everyone.<br />
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<li>For those who have a passion for a good story, Yoest explains the folk lore surrounding 50 plants, including avocados (bad news for Aztec virgins), celery (Casanova's secret weapon), and fennel (straight from the Kama Sutra). </li>
<li>For ardent gardeners, there are botanical descriptions and tips for growing these plants. </li>
<li>For the lusty cook, there are recipes. </li>
<li>And for the lover in all of us, there is that all important information: "<b>Why It Works</b>." </li>
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<b>With seductive headings like "seeds of desire" (for the section on anise), "viagra for women"(nutmeg), and "don't ask for it in Cuba" (papaya), this book is irresistible. Get a copy and experience it for yourself. </b>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-34872689248417638712014-02-09T16:33:00.000-08:002014-02-17T11:45:38.719-08:00In Spite of Challenges, the 2014 Northwest Flower and Garden Show Was a Treat You have to feel a bit sorry for the organizers of the Northwest Flower and Garden Show which opened at the Washington State Convention Center in Seattle on Wednesday and runs until 6 p.m. tonight. This show, the second largest gardening show in the US, has been described as a "Disneyland for gardeners." Every February it draws people from all over the region, busloads in fact, offering a break from winter weather and a welcome bit of inspiration, reminding us that spring is on the way.<br />
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But unlike years past, the opening day of the show was hardly mentioned on the local news. That day's BIG story was the Seahawks Super Bowl celebration and parade that brought 750,000 people to the streets of Seattle. I can't imagine how people working and/or attending the show on Wednesday were able to get in or out of the Convention Center.<br />
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After that, it seemed like things would go back to normal. But then weather forecasters started talking about snow. A lot of us (myself included) didn't think too much about that. Snow is uncommon in Seattle in February.<br />
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I was scheduled to work at the show yesterday afternoon, in the South Seattle Community College Landscape Horticulture booth. When I left my house for the Convention Center, the sun was out and I hardly felt like I needed a coat. My friends and I joked about the snow predictions. I worked my shift, and toured the show, delighted that it wasn't very crowded. Maybe people were scared off by the weather forecasts? If so, that was good for attendees, but not so good for show organizers.<br />
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Whatever the reason, it was nice to be able to move around without encountering human traffic jams. There were some delightful display gardens this year and being able to get up close was a treat. </div>
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I came home at dinnertime, the prospect of snow pretty much forgotten. But then, around 6:30, it started to snow. We got about 3 inches last night. In spite of above freezing temps during the day, a lot of snow is still on the ground. And in a couple of hours, exhibitors will start the process of breaking down the show and moving all those trees, shrubs, gardening products, structures, yards of topsoil and mulch, and gigantic granite boulders out of the Convention Center. Having been part of that process in the past, I know it isn't fun under the best of conditions. My sympathies all around.</div>
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The parade and the snow storm aside, it was a great show. I hope you got a chance to attend. </div>
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Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-74416994623861532352013-11-04T09:47:00.001-08:002013-11-04T09:47:33.424-08:00Kitchen Garden Inspiration from Chateau Villandry<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A few years ago, I had the pleasure of visiting the gardens at the Chateau Villandry in the Loire Valley of France. The gardens there are gorgeous. Of all of them, though, the kitchen garden is the one that made the biggest impression on me. My memory of that visit has forever changed what comes to mind when I hear the phrase, "kitchen garden."<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhryEg71BWc3QGDFa5rw5aB1hZOvocy96FJSJt9BpKilI-QWc-YoPD3oBzTger8Jammqar8jnIqItTPAARDZGD5Yl2AqjOcKS_z1-HVmDPb-za7Xu_IKWfsroEQ6Kh8kkkx-z5Ahf1LDmsI/s1600/Villandry+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhryEg71BWc3QGDFa5rw5aB1hZOvocy96FJSJt9BpKilI-QWc-YoPD3oBzTger8Jammqar8jnIqItTPAARDZGD5Yl2AqjOcKS_z1-HVmDPb-za7Xu_IKWfsroEQ6Kh8kkkx-z5Ahf1LDmsI/s640/Villandry+2.jpg" width="550" /></a></div>
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I've grown vegetables and I know that "working" gardens, the ones that produce our food, aren't always picture perfect. They start out in spring looking orderly, but as the season progresses and gardeners get bored or busy with other things, the garden begins to go a bit wild. Vines wander, weeds creep in, lettuce bolts, and yellow leaves tattle on gardeners who water too much or too little.<br />
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Before my visit to Villandry, I thought of gardens as being either ornamental, planted and arranged to bring beauty into a space, or edible, planted for the purpose of food production. Never the twain to meet. But leave it to the French, with their love of all things beautiful and delicious, to combine the two.<br />
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I was there in September, the time of year when vegetable gardens often look their worst. But here, with beds edged with boxwood, flowers and espalliered apple trees, the garden looks tidy and thriving. </div>
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Villandry's kitchen garden is all organic. Gardeners use non-chemical <a href="http://www.chateauvillandry.fr/en/gardens/organic-gardens/"><b>techniques both old and new</b></a> to maintain the health of the soil and plant material. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcZ-30LWPpCJADsus9JnkIRi70TJINEQQiYHZ3ovGQn4ihyf80rvDRHakMJ3VD8gmmYCOnIm_NcrRMWNNa4h1jjE8O3CbnlJi0MyQyCPiFvTa0z0C_ANIXO5S13-F5EBl0seOZWqZxVRoy/s1600/Villandry+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcZ-30LWPpCJADsus9JnkIRi70TJINEQQiYHZ3ovGQn4ihyf80rvDRHakMJ3VD8gmmYCOnIm_NcrRMWNNa4h1jjE8O3CbnlJi0MyQyCPiFvTa0z0C_ANIXO5S13-F5EBl0seOZWqZxVRoy/s640/Villandry+3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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It's all here: cabbages, kale, beans, various greens, leeks, berries, dwarf fruit trees and more. I saw pumpkins and squash being harvested when I was there. Rose standards mark the corners of beds. Annuals and perennials provide cutting flowers and seasonal color.<br />
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Where does all this bounty go? The chateau restaurant, <b><a href="http://www.chateauvillandry.fr/en/restaurant/la-doulce-terrasse/">La Doulce Terrasse</a></b>, offers a seasonal menu featuring produce from the garden and the local area.<br />
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If you would like to visit Villandry and enjoy its gardens, information is available on their <b><a href="http://www.chateauvillandry.fr/en/">official website</a></b>. Even if you can't visit in person, you'll want to take a look to find inspiration for your own kitchen garden. Bon appetit!Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-80009699810923933962013-09-02T13:08:00.001-07:002013-09-02T13:08:15.251-07:00How To Build a Rain GardenLately, I've been learning a lot about "green storm water infrastructure" (in other words, methods of managing storm water runoff) as I have been writing on my other blog about <a href="http://www.whereiamnow.net/p/alki-rowhouse-controversy.html">the environmental impact of a proposed development</a> in my neighborhood.<br />
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In my search for a clear detailed explanation of how to build a rain garden, I came across this video. It was produced by Washington State University and does an excellent job of addressing just about any question you might have. Enjoy!<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/9Kti4HJ45BM?rel=0" width="560"></iframe>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-88897085898546996822013-05-09T11:56:00.000-07:002014-03-08T15:20:50.569-08:00Do Houseplants Get Lonely?One of my sons gave me a peace lily (Spathiphyllum sp.) 15 years ago. It has always produced healthy green leaves, but it hasn't flowered in probably 10 years. For many years, it was the only houseplant I had. I keep it mostly because it was a gift from my son.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVmtUH85KNqMydTeEX59eoIU8l5KaSpgKtvbRrjQXzOiHgREPfu1MlEpErCMlHZl34jsypmZapHUr3kLkRItt9WX3FFQ7ykDBJb4P1XswOQVlrX3LW3Vh3A7yZsCHtr4ksa40FYEg9UsP0/s1600/New+peace+lily.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVmtUH85KNqMydTeEX59eoIU8l5KaSpgKtvbRrjQXzOiHgREPfu1MlEpErCMlHZl34jsypmZapHUr3kLkRItt9WX3FFQ7ykDBJb4P1XswOQVlrX3LW3Vh3A7yZsCHtr4ksa40FYEg9UsP0/s200/New+peace+lily.jpg" height="200" width="193" /></a></div>
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Three weeks ago, a friend gave me another peace lily. As you can see, it is very vigorous and full of blooms. I put it next to the older lily while I made space for it across the room.<br />
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A few days ago, I was astonished to see that the older plant is starting to bloom!<br />
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I don't think this is a coincidence. My years of gardening experience have convinced me that plants communicate with each other. I suspect that the presence of the younger plant has inspired my old one, reminding it of how much fun it is to bloom and thrive. </div>
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Do you have a similar plant story? If so, please share it. </div>
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And if you are skeptical about plant communication, you might want to read this <a href="http://www.medicaldaily.com/articles/10247/20120611/plants-communication-survival.htm">article</a> about plant survival mechanisms. Just as intriguing is new <a href="http://www.mnn.com/earth-matters/wilderness-resources/stories/can-plants-actually-talk-and-hear">evidence that plants can "talk and hear</a>." </div>
Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-4729394244199796482013-02-06T12:27:00.000-08:002013-02-11T11:10:49.994-08:00How Will Your Garden Grow in 2013?What are you going to do in the garden this year? This is the time of year to read, dream, make plans, change them, write lists, draw sketches, and stare out the windows at your garden. While you are imagining all the wonderful things to come, you are laying the groundwork (so to speak) for a successful gardening season.<br />
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Here are resources that will help you decide what you want to do when those first perfect gardening days of the year arrive.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=hort-20&o=1&p=8&l=as1&asins=1570615349&ref=qf_sp_asin_til&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=DDC642&f=ifr" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
Steve Solomon's book <b>Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades</b> is a classic. Vegetable gardening is different in our Maritime climate than in other parts of the country, so general gardening books aren't that useful. Let this book be your guide to the plant varieties and techniques that will work here. Just as importantly, Solomon explains care of the soil, including composting, fertilizing and efficient water use. Healthy soil = healthy produce.<br />
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What seeds should you plant? Consider those from <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=250954&u=231972&m=28945&urllink=&afftrack="><b>Botanical Interests</b></a>, a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate. They sell GMO-free seeds, many heirlooms, and their seed packets are so full of useful information, you'll want to keep them around for reference. Visit their website for helpful articles, special sales and occasional contests.<br />
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If you are a visual learner, you may find the help you need at <a href="http://www.gardenshow.com/"><b>The Northwest Flower and Garden Show</b></a>. This is the show's 25th year of providing gardening inspiration with stunning display gardens, seminars and so much more. The show runs February 20-24 at the Washington State Convention Center in Seattle.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=hort-20&o=1&p=8&l=as1&asins=0931380189&ref=qf_sp_asin_til&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=DDC642&f=ifr" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
For gardeners who like a "calendar" approach to planning, the <b>Maritime Northwest</b> <b>Garden Guide</b> is ideal. The content is arranged month-by-month, listing what to do each month and including tips on when to plant seeds, soil amendments, organic fertilizers, pest control and lots more. I wish Seattle Tilth would release a new edition of this valuable little book, but you can get used copies on Amazon for just $12.99.<br />
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Are you planning to add raised beds or compost bins this year? Visit <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=256490&u=231972&m=29411&urllink=&afftrack="><b>Eartheasy.com</b></a>, a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate, for how-to information, inspiration and products for sustainable gardening. Remember, they plant a tree for every order placed!<br />
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In my design practice, I have used my copy of <b>The Pacific Northwest Gardener's Book of Lists</b> so much that it is literally falling apart. I have to tape pages back into it every time I look something up. This book is just what it says, a collection of plant lists for just about every conceivable condition. Wet, dry, full sun, shade, annual, perennial, ground cover, tree, shrub - they're all there. This guide will really help you choose the right plants for the right places.<br />
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OK, it's time to get started. There's something <b>so</b> uplifting about garden planning. Enjoy the process.<br />
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Related posts:</h3>
<b><a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2011/02/when-is-right-time-to-prune.html">When Is the Right Time to Prune?</a></b><br />
<b><a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2011/02/its-february-and-time-to-prune-roses.html">It's February and Time to Prune Roses</a></b><br />
<b><a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2010/12/ready-to-take-out-your-lawn.html">Ready To Take Out Your Lawn?</a></b><br />
<br />Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-27675958700676222602012-07-21T14:22:00.000-07:002016-06-05T10:36:15.860-07:00The Problem With the Privet HedgeI never had nasal allergies until a year ago. Then, in mid-summer when everyone else's allergy symptoms were easing up, a neighbor of mine and I started having symptoms. Neither of us had ever had seasonal allergies before so it took a while to realize that was what we had. Fortunately, our symptoms were fairly mild and we were able to get relief with typical over-the-counter meds.<br />
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This year, I expected to have some problems in spring, but I was fine through all the tree and grass pollen outpourings. Then again, about a week ago, I started having symptoms. Levels of tree, grass and weed pollens are low right now and friends of mine who suffer with them are feeling much better than they did a couple of months ago. So I wondered what it is that I am sensitive to.<br />
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Yesterday I might have figured it out. I have a section of privet hedge (Ligustrum japonicum) along one side of my yard, which has just come into full bloom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizffwe1HzZICjJNm3KUQNsuSP_VrzWnCFOUXabje63NetSC1QOhnadnoJoi0kn-OW_xO2b_V4Uc0Wh3MKQohZkbyFVxDQqypiQXwtzCxCut9aKBmDct3ClodaXJJAyA2_kWKah-PsDWcDZ/s1600/Privet+flowers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizffwe1HzZICjJNm3KUQNsuSP_VrzWnCFOUXabje63NetSC1QOhnadnoJoi0kn-OW_xO2b_V4Uc0Wh3MKQohZkbyFVxDQqypiQXwtzCxCut9aKBmDct3ClodaXJJAyA2_kWKah-PsDWcDZ/s400/Privet+flowers.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The past two springs have been particularly rainy and the hedge has responded by producing record crops of big, creamy white panicles (flowers) in mid-July. They are pretty and the bees love them, but as far as I am concerned they smell terrible. Since this hedge is close to my windows, which I have open most of the time in summer, and close to my garden, where I like to spend my time, I decided to cut off a bunch of the flowers to reduce the odor.<br />
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That helped. And after dumping a couple of buckets of blooms into the yard waste bin, I thought my nasal symptoms were eased a bit, too. I wondered then if privet pollen is something people have allergic reactions to. So I did a google search. And sure enough!<br />
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Privet pollen is known to trigger allergic reactions, asthma, eczema and hay fever. In fact, it is illegal to grow or sell privet plants in New Zealand <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Privet">because of the health problems it causes</a>.<br />
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I'm not planning to take down the hedge anytime soon, but I will be a lot more diligent from now on about removing those stinky flowers as soon as they appear.<br />
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-7375009279029657332012-06-30T10:01:00.000-07:002016-06-25T11:30:44.299-07:00The Advantages of Starting Vegetables From Seed After the Summer SolsticeMany of us have been there. We start out with great intentions. We're going to grow our own food. We have plans and tools and seed catalogs. We can almost taste the luscious vegetables we are going to harvest from our gardens.<br />
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And then stuff happens. Other things come up that require our attention. The weather is too <b><i>something</i></b> - hot, cold, wet, dry - and we don't get the garden planted. Or maybe we do get it planted, but our crops "bolt," start going to seed too early, resulting in disappointing flavors and textures. So here it is, the end of June, it seems too late to start a garden and we give up on our dream of growing vegetables.<br />
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But according to Ryan, the Garden Coach at <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=250954&u=231972&m=28945&urllink=&afftrack="><b>Botanical Interests</b></a> (a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate), many vegetables do better when planted now, after the summer solstice. These include: vegetables in the Brassica family (broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), vegetables that form heads (lettuce, radicchio and others), and vegetables that like cooler conditions (carrots, beets, spinach, etc.)<br />
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Ryan explains why this is a good time to be sowing vegetable seeds in this article, "<b><a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=231972&b=250954&m=28945&afftrack=planting%20after%20solstice&urllink=botanicalinterests%2Ecom%2Finthegarden%2Funcategorized%2Fsecond%2Dchances%2F">Second Chances</a></b>." There are several factors, including day length and soil temperature, that make it likely that planting now will result in a better harvest than was possible earlier in the year. And of course, if you need seed, Botanical Interests is an excellent source. They carry many organic and heirloom varieties. Absolutely NO GMOs.<br />
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-3509224081156351592012-05-18T12:57:00.000-07:002012-05-18T12:58:07.503-07:003 Ways to Deal with Root Weevils<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZzp1NjvotYgq78VEYfuMJBMCUAe1z2wDkjo0FDqT36S6Srx_Svvpz-O7t2o9p_xmlXJlKcMdQAJ6Lb433vHxz1ZXd6ipa3Wr6t3kajXZ1GkBz16_WwrX9wJAQyQxOZn0oMLizO8Bqxu8Z/s1600/root+weevil+damage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZzp1NjvotYgq78VEYfuMJBMCUAe1z2wDkjo0FDqT36S6Srx_Svvpz-O7t2o9p_xmlXJlKcMdQAJ6Lb433vHxz1ZXd6ipa3Wr6t3kajXZ1GkBz16_WwrX9wJAQyQxOZn0oMLizO8Bqxu8Z/s320/root+weevil+damage.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
You know you have root weevils when you see these distinctive notches on your rhododendron leaves.<br />
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Like slugs, root weevils are nocturnal creatures. To catch them chewing on your plants, you will have to go out at night with a flashlight. In fact, some gardeners do just that. They put on rubber gloves, grab a bucket and a flashlight, and go patroling the garden, picking weevils off their rhodies.<br />
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Personally, I'm not a fan of picking bugs off of anything at any time of day. I'm also not a fan of using pesticides. So what are the alternatives?<br />
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One, do nothing. Root weevils will not kill your rhododendrons. The worst that will happen is that you will have a lot of notched leaves.<br />
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Two, do something to prevent the weevils from climbing up the branches of the plant. Root weevils can't fly. The only way they can reach the leaves is to walk up the branches. Try coating the base of the plant with something sticky like Tanglefoot. The weevils can't get past that sticky barrier and your leaves will be safe from harm.<br />
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Three, plant rhododendrons that root weevils don't like. They won't bother any rhodie with fuzz, or indumentum, under the leaves, such as members of the Rh. yakushimanum family.<br />
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Need more ideas on ways to de-bug your garden? Check out Eartheasy's article on <b><a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=231972&b=256490&m=29411&afftrack=root%20weevil&urllink=eartheasy%2Ecom%2Fgrow%5Fnat%5Fpest%5Fcntrl%2Ehtm">natural garden pest control</a></b>.Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-36837438357003928872012-05-10T10:32:00.000-07:002012-05-10T10:32:06.372-07:00Trapping Slugs with BeerThe slugs are out in force right about now. You don't always see them, being the nocturnal creatures that they are. But the next morning, you certainly do see the damage done to the garden.<br />
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If you are looking for a way to rid yourself of these pests without using toxic chemicals, consider installing beer traps in your garden. Slugs love beer! If you sink a container of beer into the ground so that slugs can crawl into it, they'll eagerly drown their sorrows, and themselves, in the brew. All you have to do is come by every day or so, scoop out the dead slugs and top up the beer supply.<br />
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You probably have all the "equipment" you need for making traps in your kitchen right now. A glass jar, a large empty tuna can, a plastic margarine tub - any of these will make a fine trap. Next you'll want something to use for a lid, as shown in the drawing below, that will serve as an umbrella. Then dig holes and install the containers, sinking all but the top 1/4" into the ground. (Leaving a bit of a lip exposed at the top will keep rain from running into the trap.) Now you're ready to add the beer - the cheaper the better - slugs aren't fussy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPgsHQ_qxxjw50vE3yrsri9-eM1zmJwOaKzMlklicGUTLi_vCg5L9LLc4dj2XzVVhRc5c9xWDKDsWcgzeLAJ_wnwhvxR8KfoOvzV53Y1HmNzT-hkhW9L5kxO5r-fNTm9RZibQm8AhdVqsf/s1600/SLUG+TRAP+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPgsHQ_qxxjw50vE3yrsri9-eM1zmJwOaKzMlklicGUTLi_vCg5L9LLc4dj2XzVVhRc5c9xWDKDsWcgzeLAJ_wnwhvxR8KfoOvzV53Y1HmNzT-hkhW9L5kxO5r-fNTm9RZibQm8AhdVqsf/s400/SLUG+TRAP+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If plying slugs with alcohol doesn't appeal to you, there are many other non-toxic ways to protect your plants from slugs. Our friends at Eartheasy have a long list of effective methods, which feature, among other things: garlic, copper strips, seaweed, coffee, or adjusting your watering habits. <a href="http://shrsl.com/?~29xm"><b>Click here to read the article</b></a>.<br />
Whatever method you choose, you'll be able to protect your garden without having to use toxic slug baits.Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-76009650458219504152012-04-30T11:16:00.000-07:002012-04-30T17:55:57.721-07:00A Living Salad WallA neighbor of mine is interested in installing a vertical garden, or living wall, to cover a concrete wall in his back yard. As he and I have been doing research and talking about this project, I've become inspired to do a little experimenting of my own.<br />
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I bought one of Bright Green's <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054WRB10?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0054WRB10">GroVert living wall planters</a></b> (Amazon affiliate link) to see see how their system works. This 10-cell, polymer panel measures 8" wide, 18" tall and 4" deep. Multiple panels can be linked together to create a solid living wall.<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054WRB10?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0054WRB10" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXsyik_UD5yU2x1FG-vLB_hw4FGCrXDBIQDNsBIyQXehAa-FkeLept1Y1AcwlZbyeOzB2bqb4mJbkeT9os1XbKsBnqbe3eTTOpz_GwmDXuHlpGUtg740h5rfun0isDCWiHze47Vq5I3HO/s320/GroVert+panel+empty.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The cells of the planter are set at a 45 degree angle to keep water and soil from falling out once the panel is mounted on the wall. Very clever! </div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054WRB10?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0054WRB10" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNm4tvkpHac0xreTnz7U-Mb6M1KCxKpRCiTHbQYKnlAIzMkm_tHDdLFLbD6wj7M99eGRxfuWESKutJvdQi97mB_8-g_pFczh2AjQ7W3YQ7ihQ-3l3BqdO_-rTcknp8qM2GuUuYkhQJwl-/s320/GroVert+moisture+pads.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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At the base of each cell is a "moisture mat" - another smart idea - that holds water and keeps plant roots from drying out. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXeQuMJWfsGD9Ig7QtAXdYAP7nc7xYPU-20TWhezFlmKQDrgYMT9wmMaYrkZGLd92vF6i6MM1Ws0u-a955wGthFY2iiIC4e9f8mst5MlEh3PFmDQI-7L0HT8PKhAddSNlRQ9nd5rjQE7dU/s1600/GroVert+planting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXeQuMJWfsGD9Ig7QtAXdYAP7nc7xYPU-20TWhezFlmKQDrgYMT9wmMaYrkZGLd92vF6i6MM1Ws0u-a955wGthFY2iiIC4e9f8mst5MlEh3PFmDQI-7L0HT8PKhAddSNlRQ9nd5rjQE7dU/s400/GroVert+planting.jpg" width="325" /></a></div>
Here's the fun part - planting! I decided to fill my panel with salad greens and a few herbs. But there are lots of other possibilities, including succulents, foliage plants and annuals for sun or shade, depending on where you plan to install your vertical garden.<br />
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For my "living salad wall" I wanted lots of color and texture, plus I wanted organic starts since I plan to make salad eventually with what I've planted. So I headed to <b><a href="http://www.westseattlenursery.com/">West Seattle Nursery</a></b> to see what I could find. I came away with lettuces: 'Wildfire Mix,' 'Salad Bowl Red,' 'Winter Density,' a spicy mesculun mix, and endive. I also got 4" starts of cilantro, Italian parsley, French thyme and and 'Apricot Trifle' nasturtium.<br />
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I realized as I planted these that it might have been better to have planted less in each cell, and filled in with more potting soil. It is tempting, though, to do just what I did, because a 4" pony-pack fits really nicely into each cell. But no worries, I can easily revise the planting if necessary as the season progresses.<br />
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OK, with the planting done, the next step was to water thoroughly and let the panel sit at a slight angle to drain before mounting. While the panel was draining, I installed the bracket to hold the panel onto my fence.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje9Ix2v-pIjb6cP9M_lHs5BXOklUIT9dFy-Zn-pOCn5Jz4GMLlP8m5V_XYvsvsulhDR67bKQwomJJsJcA_rRr-255c2VUW_iZV3CNZuBFKi1UD7FUDkLlX3VMa6bUQq0EDvx9fDEjAW_vV/s1600/GroVert+bracket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje9Ix2v-pIjb6cP9M_lHs5BXOklUIT9dFy-Zn-pOCn5Jz4GMLlP8m5V_XYvsvsulhDR67bKQwomJJsJcA_rRr-255c2VUW_iZV3CNZuBFKi1UD7FUDkLlX3VMa6bUQq0EDvx9fDEjAW_vV/s200/GroVert+bracket.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
You'll have to furnish your own fasteners. Fortunately, I had some galvanized wood screws on hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXPJQodHhXSoP5BFRE8XlQ-Ss_MNGkMX2eMJZM0QcwBJRQHYkYAhEnEUi4uyxPj5iQRAUaN3WqjA9J0BmG5qFm_clzsnP-9H2HHVDgCNaYOH6634Nam1Kc5uc_e57CqLE4Ag5RHrDjf58C/s1600/GroVert+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXPJQodHhXSoP5BFRE8XlQ-Ss_MNGkMX2eMJZM0QcwBJRQHYkYAhEnEUi4uyxPj5iQRAUaN3WqjA9J0BmG5qFm_clzsnP-9H2HHVDgCNaYOH6634Nam1Kc5uc_e57CqLE4Ag5RHrDjf58C/s640/GroVert+finished.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<b>And here it is - my living salad wall! </b></div>
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To top it off, I added an <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054WRB38?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0054WRB38">irrigator</a> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">box</span>.</b><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054WRB38?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0054WRB38" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWId3N2xAmHy-rSPjkuHvOzen0bTvwmyZAM4capL_JLGMhGxr9qM7-P7xKwa4JVT7CXPbBEEl6ulvTZqErgsrNR52EsfUqxNmrgUdndk48RO-DdX0l5-blSvQ1eW4cDD-U7jtNtBh0j6F5/s320/GroVert+irrigator.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>
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This little box mounts on top of the panel and holds a quart of water. (I'm showing it here with the lid open. After adding water, you'll want to close the lid to keep dirt from getting in.) Small holes in the bottom of the box let water slowly trickle down into the planter, keeping the plants and the moisture pads irrigated. </div>
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It will be fun to see how this works out. As with any gardening experiment, I expect some plants to do well and others will need to be replaced. If I get a few salads out of it, I'll consider it a success. Regardless, the planter and irrigator will still be around for me to use in another season. </div>
<b><br /></b>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-829700036246736402012-04-28T10:06:00.000-07:002012-04-28T10:06:17.766-07:00Changing My Mind About SpireaI've never been a fan of spirea. When I hear the name, what comes to mind is one of the big, sprawling bridal veil varieties (Spirea cantoniensis, S. prunifolia, or S. x vanhouttei). These plants produce masses of white flowers in spring that, to me, smell unpleasantly musty. I don't want to be around them.<br />
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But there is a mound form of spirea (Spirea japonica) that has won me over. There are several plants in this group, many of which stay below 3' tall, all with striking foliage. Cultivars such as 'Goldflame,' 'Goldmound,' and 'Limemound,' certainly live up to their names in the garden. I've been admiring some of these on my regular trips to the local PCC store, where they are planted in the <a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2011/06/commercial-landscapes-at-pcc-dry-stream.html">dry stream bed garden</a> out front.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVeeHQqH0xaFxRilzeOV8gT3eO0rCpmjdmhQouOarQw0mlLHJwp8NkzCXqbum1wvuXHWDepPHgXPlhzJKfOMdlzW6ZUCXVUlyY4kkAGME0L8BDwIQSmqfFChykG4EvzqI3W0K_-fKhRlgs/s1600/PCC+dry+stream.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVeeHQqH0xaFxRilzeOV8gT3eO0rCpmjdmhQouOarQw0mlLHJwp8NkzCXqbum1wvuXHWDepPHgXPlhzJKfOMdlzW6ZUCXVUlyY4kkAGME0L8BDwIQSmqfFChykG4EvzqI3W0K_-fKhRlgs/s400/PCC+dry+stream.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
Here you see examples of what I assume are either 'Goldmound' or 'Goldflame' in the PCC garden.<br />
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So it happened that yesterday I was working in a corner of my yard that I haven't been happy with for a while. Most of the plants work well together, but there's a spot where nothing has quite fit or been able to thrive. I took out the plants that weren't working and weeded the bed. While I worked, I thought about what might fill in that area and pull it all together. Then I headed up to <b><a href="http://www.westseattlenursery.com/">West Seattle Nursery</a></b> for more inspiration. Here's what I came home with:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmpSnhcaqAeGr2qe5CjrspcE44xfuins-lFPQNPGADUh_fYrx1S8lF0Wri9sd3nmDlas_s5hg8Fx2MXi7hrYLZFPAYWm9C7-VZJHvGPc52FAwz16EVEEYpTaYOtw9-mAP4D4AMLm35-5P/s1600/Spirea+'Magic+Carpet'.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmpSnhcaqAeGr2qe5CjrspcE44xfuins-lFPQNPGADUh_fYrx1S8lF0Wri9sd3nmDlas_s5hg8Fx2MXi7hrYLZFPAYWm9C7-VZJHvGPc52FAwz16EVEEYpTaYOtw9-mAP4D4AMLm35-5P/s400/Spirea+'Magic+Carpet'.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is Spirea japonica 'Magic Carpet,' a <a href="http://www.greatplantpicks.org/"><b>Pacific Northwest Great Plant Pick</b></a>. It will hold this yellow/chartreuse color all season and will have pink flowers in summer. This vivid foliage, edged with bits of bronze, red and coral, appears to be lit from within. Mature size will be about 2' x 2'. </div>
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I've planted it next to 'Red Fred' heather. We'll see how they get along. </div>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-60985324732035006752012-04-26T11:18:00.000-07:002012-04-26T11:18:07.030-07:00Starting Basil From SeedIf you've ever tried to grow basil here, you know that it isn't fond of our cool, maritime Northwest climate. Plants set out in May often sulk, refuse to grow - and then die. I used to work at a local nursery and watch customers come in week after week to buy basil plants to replace the ones they lost the week before. We recommended cloches and bringing plants in at night until temperatures warmed, but that advice fell on deaf ears. Visions of pesto, bruschetta, and caprese salads got in the way, and plants went into the ground much too early.<br />
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All that said, it <b><i>is</i></b> possible to grow basil successfully in Seattle. If you get seedlings started indoors in mid- to late April, they will be ready for transplanting in early June when the soil has finally warmed up.<br />
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It is easy to do this. All you need is a sunny windowsill, some potting soil, a container for the soil - an empty egg carton will work just fine - and some seed.<br />
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The fun part is the seed! You generally always have more varieties to choose from in seeds, for any type of plant, than you will find when you buy seedlings already started. Growers can afford to grow what they believe they can sell, and they aren't too willing to try exotic varieties. You, however, have options.<br />
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Take a look at this <b><a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=231972&b=250954&m=28945&afftrack=basil%20seed&urllink=www%2Ebotanicalinterests%2Ecom%2Fproducts%2Findex%2Fsrch%3Abasil">list of basil varieties</a></b> from Botanical Interests (a Seattle Garden Ideas affiliate). You can choose from lemon basil, lime basil, purple basil, Thai basil, Italian basil, Greek basil, plus organic and heirloom blends. Imagine the possibilities!<br />
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It will take about 4-6 weeks for your seedlings to be ready to plant outside. You will need to harden the seedlings off - meaning that you gradually acclimate them to being outside. One way to do this is to cover them with a floating row cover, like <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FA9SOI/ref=as_li_tf_til?tag=hort-20&camp=0&creative=0&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=B001FA9SOI&adid=19XZKQ1HMTF4T1M0SAPP">reemay</a></b> fabric, after you plant them. The fabric will keep the plants from being sunburned during the day and hold heat in overnight. After a few days, you can remove the fabric and the plants should be hardy enough to thrive.<br />
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So there you have it - everything you need to know about getting basil to grow in Seattle. Enjoy!Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-16006084703672242872012-04-06T09:59:00.001-07:002012-04-14T15:08:05.243-07:00Skagit Valley Tulip FestivalSkagit Valley is home to the largest commercial flower bulb growing operations in the US. These companies host the annual Tulip Festival, which runs the entire month of April. Hundreds of acres of colorful bloom make this a popular event for both gardeners and photographers.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgln27muxD9UrHZ-0Aq5k4UlYnpI9fdggU1bPICjH2AenChHrTU9od86YfsQyjNShuHKHXN7vonneBxfjF3HOpWUbrsHtMnb3X3o6s3bufW6JeBEs-kR9VtzA9xQJcLOpXUrLchYq9qYsJI/s1600/daffodil+rows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgln27muxD9UrHZ-0Aq5k4UlYnpI9fdggU1bPICjH2AenChHrTU9od86YfsQyjNShuHKHXN7vonneBxfjF3HOpWUbrsHtMnb3X3o6s3bufW6JeBEs-kR9VtzA9xQJcLOpXUrLchYq9qYsJI/s400/daffodil+rows.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Row upon row of daffodils provide the warm-up act for the colorful show <br />
of tulip blooms to come at the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival.</td></tr>
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The exact bloom time of the tulip fields depends on the weather. This year's long winter and cool temperatures mean that the blooms will open a bit later this month than they have in other years. But don't let that slow you down. Start planning your trip now by visiting the <a href="http://www.tulipfestival.org/site"><b>Festival website</b></a>. There you will find a map of the gardens, information about the growers, things to do and places to see. Plan on making a day of it and be sure to bring a camera. This is a wonderful outing for the whole family.<br />
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For a preview of what you'll see, including stunning photos of unusual tulip varieties, watch this video created by Travelingrandma. Gorgeous!<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/YNh1QQbD9ck" width="420"></iframe>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-3302627261255113692012-04-05T11:32:00.000-07:002016-06-05T10:34:28.991-07:00Euphoric Over Euphorbia<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvEThId2O_jVzOnfdFxNFO8DhnOodg8jC1rzBPDFi_-7F93BT1QOqqReTYGep6l70SsObWgNxRcDDEAYqhzaEN_e8rvdAyxYm2PZaXI078sVNV_qvEtgxRqOKBIjtxwJmtKaxQQFVUNifB/s1600/Euphorbia+wulfenii.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvEThId2O_jVzOnfdFxNFO8DhnOodg8jC1rzBPDFi_-7F93BT1QOqqReTYGep6l70SsObWgNxRcDDEAYqhzaEN_e8rvdAyxYm2PZaXI078sVNV_qvEtgxRqOKBIjtxwJmtKaxQQFVUNifB/s400/Euphorbia+wulfenii.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Euphorbia characias wulfenii</td></tr>
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OK, "euphoric" might be an exaggeration - I don't necessarily feel euphoric when I see one of these. I just thought it would make a catchy headline. Still, Euphorbia in its many forms is a striking plant. Getting double-takes on the streets of Seattle right now are these specimens of E. wulfenii, that stand about 4 feet tall with huge, chartreuse "flowers." These flowers, technically, are collections of brightly colored bracts. If you look closely you will see tiny "true" flowers nestled inside each bract cup.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9PhSdfMulybJfL_wCiJE53KObqEZ-npHfs8qdwO51_8AdY5iiJKkUR-BgutzM3iGDqhIafTmjCj05ZBH5BjEUydQMb75nCy169IoES1xQm9GzrFuibwwd0MQIl-btMBaGRA3OEQp4-bDC/s1600/Euphorbia+flower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9PhSdfMulybJfL_wCiJE53KObqEZ-npHfs8qdwO51_8AdY5iiJKkUR-BgutzM3iGDqhIafTmjCj05ZBH5BjEUydQMb75nCy169IoES1xQm9GzrFuibwwd0MQIl-btMBaGRA3OEQp4-bDC/s320/Euphorbia+flower.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
There are about 2,000 species of Euphorbia. Probably the best known variety is the poinsettia (E. pulcherrima). Euphorbias can take many forms: shrubs, perennials, annuals and succulents. Most require hotter, drier conditions than we have in the Northwest, but there are several that do well here. In addition to E. wulfenii, look for Mrs. Robb's bonnet (E. amygdaloides robbiae), donkey tail spurge (E. myrsinites), E. palustris, and more at your local nursery.<br />
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Note that all plants in this family have white, milky sap that will irritate and even burn your skin. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and long-sleeved shirts when handling them. I've had some nasty burns working with these plants, even when I thought I was being careful. This sap is poisonous if ingested - the level of toxicity varies depending on the cultivar.<br />
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There is a variety of Euphorbia called a mole plant or gopher plant ( E. lathyris) because it is believed that the poisonous sap will kill burrowing rodents who attempt to feed on its roots. I've never known this to work. Moles eat worms and grubs, not plant material. For more on what doesn't work, here's a<a href="http://www.molecatchers.com/doesnt_work.html">n article from MoleCatchers</a>. To get rid of moles, you have to set traps.<br />
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-75597028911211992632012-03-20T12:47:00.002-07:002015-07-06T08:47:56.920-07:00Plants That Add Structure to Sunny Garden BedsAs I explained in my introduction to the <a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2012/03/plants-that-add-structure-to-shady.html">plant list for shady garden beds</a>, you want to design your garden so that it has a framework, or structure, that is visible year around. When you do this, your garden will look good all year, even in the dead of winter. Here are some plant choices for sunny exposures.<br />
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<b>SHRUBS</b><br />
<b>Berberis thunbergii 'Crimson Pygmy' - Crimson pygmy barberry</b><br />
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Size: up to 2' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Deciduous; deep red leaves; mound-shaped; very tiny yellow flowers in spring; very thorny, can be used as a barrier plant; rarely needs pruning.</blockquote>
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<b>Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruiticosa' - True dwarf boxwood</b></div>
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Size: to 4-5' if left unclipped</blockquote>
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Comments: Boxwood grows in sun or shade; it can be clipped into a hedge or allowed to grow naturally as a dense, round shrub.</blockquote>
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<b>Cistus spp. - Rockrose</b><br />
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Size: 2' - 6' tall and wide, depending on cultivar</blockquote>
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Comments: Many cultivars to choose from in different sizes; all are very tolerant of bad soil, drought and salt spray; flower colors range from white to pink to purple; evergreen; use as a hedge or in small groupings.</blockquote>
<b>Euonymous japonicus 'Microphyllus' - Box-leafed euonymous</b><br />
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Size: 1' -2' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Very dark, green leaves; formal looking; needs no clipping; forms an attractive low hedge.</blockquote>
<b>Hebe</b><br />
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Size: 2' - 6', depending on cultivar</blockquote>
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Comments: Many cultivars to choose from. Leaves vary a great deal in size, color, and texture, from convex blue-grey to fleshy purple. Showy varieties like 'Amy' and 'Tricolor' aren't likely to survive prolonged cold or heavy frosts (believe me, I've lost several). But most all varieties will tolerate seaside conditions. Short flower spikes in summer are purple or white. 'Red Edge' lives up to its name in winter/early spring with attractive red margins on the leaves.</blockquote>
<b>Juniperus squamata 'Blue Star' - Blue star juniper</b><br />
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Size: up to 12" tall x 2' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Blue foliage with star-like form; unlike any other juniper; good blue accent in the garden.</blockquote>
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<b>Nandina domestica - Heavenly bamboo</b></div>
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Size: 3' x 3' up to 8' tall, depending on variety</blockquote>
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Comments: Not really a bamboo, but called that because of its leaf shape. All varieties are evergreen. Many to choose from. All do well in sun or shade, but color up best in sun. 'Compacta' is fast growing up to 6', column shaped, red new growth, clusters of white flowers followed by red berries. 'Gulf Stream' gets approximately 4' x 3', burgundy new growth in spring which ages to dark rich green by summer. 'Moon Bay' is slightly smaller, about 3' x 3', new foliage is bright red and/or yellow, like all Nandina, color changes with temperature making it interesting year around. There are many more varieties available. Some have lots of berries, some have none; shapes include: tall and slender and short and wide; some a ground covers. There is some form of Nandina for just about any place in a garden.</blockquote>
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<b>Pinus mugo 'Mugo' - Mugo pine</b><br />
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Size: 2' tall and wide and up</blockquote>
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Comments: This is a dwarf version of a large mound-shaped pine. Provides year around texture and visual interest.</blockquote>
<b>Viburnum davidii - David's viburnum</b><br />
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Size: to 3' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Often used as a low-growing border. Has clusters of white flowers in spring, followed by iridescent blue berries.</blockquote>
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<b>Need more ideas?</b> Get your copy of <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0878339566?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=0878339566">The Pacific Northwest Gardener's Book of Lists</a>. </b></div>
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<b>PERENNIALS</b><br />
<b>Euphorbia spp.</b><br />
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Size: 18" to 5' tall</blockquote>
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Comments: There are many plants in this group: E. wulfenii is stunning in late winter, standing 4 -5' tall with large clusters of chartreuse bracts atop its many stems. Look for smaller varieties, too; new ones are introduced often. Be careful working with these plants. Their white, milky sap will burn your skin. Wear long sleeves and gloves.</blockquote>
<b>Herbs, such as Lavender, Rosemary and Sage</b><br />
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Size: 18" to 4' tall and wide, depending on type</blockquote>
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Comments: All three of these are fragrant; all are drought tolerant; all have blue or purple flowers; all are evergreen, although the sage will lose some leaves in winter. Lavender makes a good low hedge with several varieties to choose from, including Spanish lavender which features a little topknot on top of each flower. Upright rosemary plants will quickly become small shrubs. 'Tuscan Blue' has a particularly vivid blue flower in late winter, early spring. There are several varieties of sage to choose from: purple sage makes a nice accent; pineapple sage has yellow-green leaves.</blockquote>
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<b>Ornamental grasses</b><br />
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Size: 18" to 5' tall</blockquote>
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Comments: There are many grasses to choose from. Grasses in the Carex family are small, mound-shaped and come in several colors ranging from medium green leaves with creamy edges to bronze. The Miscanthus family includes many interesting cultivars from 4' to 8' tall, with different leaf colors and striping, all topped with feathery plumes in summer. Ornamental grasses can be beautiful and easy to maintain if you choose the right ones. They can be invasive and lots of work if you don't. So do some research before you plant. Consult <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0376039205?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=0376039205"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><b>The New Sunset Western Garden Book</b></span></a> for detailed information.</blockquote>
<b>Sedum spectabile </b><br />
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Size: up to 30" tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: This is the upright form of a prolific group of plants; several attractive cultivars include 'Autumn Joy' and 'Brilliant.' New foliage begins to show above ground in winter, followed by flowers that resemble broccoli heads. These turn pink or reddish as spring progresses and become handsome dried flowers by fall. Newer introductions have purple foliage. </blockquote>
<br />Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-77456115171257110482012-03-20T09:20:00.000-07:002012-03-20T09:32:17.823-07:00Cherries Bloom at the University of WashingtonIn honor of the first day of spring, here's a video featuring the magnificent Yoshino cherry trees at the Seattle campus of the University of Washington. Enjoy!<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="300" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/y-eEekV3Vd0" width="420"></iframe><br />
The UW Continuing Education Department offers this history of the trees:<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">"30 Yoshino cherry trees are the hallmark of the University of Washington Quad. They were first planted on land that is now the approach to SR 520, but were relocated to campus during construction of the bridge. Estimated to live between 60 and 100 years, the trees are approximately 63-73 years old. In anticipation of replacing them, the UW Class of 1959 launched the Cherry Tree Project. Cuttings were grafted onto rootstock, and replacement trees are growing in a nursery in Mount Vernon, WA. Visit the original cherry blossoms in the Quad as they begin to bloom now through April. And keep learning. It's the Washington Way. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"><a class="yt-uix-redirect-link" dir="ltr" href="http://www.keeplearning.uw.edu/" rel="nofollow" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: transparent; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-color: initial; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-style: initial; border-top-width: 0px; color: #1c62b9; cursor: pointer; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank" title="http://www.keeplearning.uw.edu">http://www.keeplearning.uw.edu</a>"</span><br />
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</span>Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-32176412617159301682012-03-19T11:27:00.000-07:002015-07-11T10:09:11.035-07:00Plants That Add Structure to Shady Garden BedsIf you plan your garden beds so that they look good even in the winter months, you can be sure they will look good all year around. The way you do this is to include plants that are either evergreen or have something interesting to offer in the winter. Then arrange those plants like a sort of framework, what some people call "the bones of the garden," around which everything else - bulbs, annuals, herbaceous perennials - comes and goes throughout the year. Here are some choices for your shady area.<br />
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<b>SHRUBS</b><br />
<b>Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruiticosa' - True dwarf boxwood</b><br />
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Size: to 4-5' if left unclipped</blockquote>
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Comments: Boxwood grows in sun or shade; it can be clipped into a hedge or allowed to grow naturally as a dense, round shrub</blockquote>
<b>Camellia japonica or C. sasanqua - Camellias</b><br />
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Size: 6' - 12' tall and wide, depending on variety</blockquote>
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Comments: C. japonica is the larger of the two, with glossy green leaves and white or pink flowers. It blooms in late winter into spring and can be trained into a small tree. C. sasanqua is smaller and finer textured. It blooms around Christmas and has a wider variety of flower colors. Good for espallier.</blockquote>
<b>Corylopsis sp. - Winter haze</b>l<br />
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Size: 4' - 15' depending on variety</blockquote>
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Comments: Deciduous shrubs. C. glabrescens, called fragrant winter hazel, grows 8' - 15' tall and has yellow clusters of fragrant flowers in winter. C. paucifolia, buttercup winter hazel, is much smaller, 4' - 6', with yellow flowers. Both bloom before leafing out. </blockquote>
<b>Daphne odora 'Marginata' - Winter daphne</b><br />
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Size: to 4' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Fussy daphnes are grown for their divine scent and handsome foliage. This one is no exception. Its fragrance will fill the garden in late winter and the variegated foliage will brighten the landscape year around. Evergreen.</blockquote>
<b>Daphne X burkwoodii 'Carol Mackie'</b><br />
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Size: 3' - 4' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: This daphne is semi-evergreen. It emits a wonderful scent from tiny white flowers in late spring and summer; leaves are edged in white.</blockquote>
<b>Fatsia japonica - Japanese aralia</b><br />
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Size: 5' - 8' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Tropical looking shrub, often sold as a house plant, with large, deeply cut leaves. Roundish clusters of white flowers are followed by black fruit. Bold accent plant.</blockquote>
<b>Nandina domestica - Heavenly bamboo</b><br />
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Size: 3' x 3' up to 8' tall, depending on variety</blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Comments: Not really a bamboo, but called that because of its leaf shape. All varieties are evergreen. Many to choose from. All do well in sun or shade, but color up best in sun. 'Compacta' is fast growing up to 6', column shaped, red new growth, clusters of white flowers followed by red berries. 'Gulf Stream' gets approximately 4' x 3', burgundy new growth in spring which ages to dark rich green by summer. 'Moon Bay' is slightly smaller, about 3' x 3', new foliage is bright red and/or yellow, like all Nandina, color changes with temperature making it interesting year around. There are many more varieties available. Some have lots of berries, some have none; shapes include: tall and slender and short and wide; some a ground covers. There is some form of Nandina for just about any place in a garden. </blockquote>
<b>Pieris japonica - Lily of the valley shrub</b><br />
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Size: 3' to 8', depending on variety</blockquote>
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Comments: Many cultivars to choose from; purchase plants in bloom to be sure of flower color, which ranges from white to deep rose; plants are evergreen, with large clusters of bell-shaped flowers in spring.</blockquote>
<b><a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2012/03/rhododendrons-that-dont-get-over-4-feet.html">Rhododendrons</a></b><br />
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Size: 18" - 10' depending on variety</blockquote>
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Comments: Huge selection to choose from! Look for unusual leaves or flower color to add interest; consider planting specimens of different varieties to stagger bloom time from very early February to late May/June.</blockquote>
<b>Sarcococca - Vanilla plant</b><br />
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Size: 18" to 5' tall</blockquote>
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Comments: S. hookeriana humilis gets only about 18" tall; S. ruscifolia reaches 4' 6' tall and 3' - 7' wide; both have tiny, white, intensely fragrant blooms in winter. They account for much of the wonderful fragrance you enjoy at the <a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2012/02/taking-stroll-through-witt-winter.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><b>Witt Winter Garden in Seattle</b></span></a> in late January and February. </blockquote>
<b>Skimmia japonica</b><br />
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Size: eventually 4' - 5' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Evergreen. There's a male and female form - the female produces red berries. Tiny, white, lightly fragrant flowers bloom in spring; slow growing, mound shaped plant. All skimmia get mites sooner or later. They won't kill the plant and there's nothing really effective you can do to get rid of them. They create an interesting "stippled" effect on the leaves, which is so common that most people think it is normal.</blockquote>
Need more ideas? Get your copy of <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0878339566?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=0878339566">The Pacific Northwest Gardener's Book of Lists</a>. </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>PERENNIALS</b><br />
<b>Acorus gramineus - Japanese sweet flag</b><br />
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Size 6" - 12" </blockquote>
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Comments: Yellow grass-like leaves arranged in a fan shape; brightens shady areas; prefers wet conditions</blockquote>
<b>Carex morrowii 'Aureomarginata'</b><br />
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Size: 10' tall - 24" wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Attractive evergreen ornamental grass; medium green blades with creamy margin; good accent; brightens up dark spots in the garden</blockquote>
<b><a href="http://www.seattlegardenideas.com/2012/02/heavenly-hellebores.html">Hellebores</a></b><br />
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Size: up to 24"</blockquote>
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Comments: Several varieties to choose from: Christmas rose, Lenten rose, Corsican hellebore, stinking hellebore, etc. All have cup-shaped flowers, ranging from white, to chartreuse, to pink and deep, nearly black purples; leaves vary in shape and color from light to very dark green.</blockquote>
<b>Pachysandra terminalis</b><br />
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Size: up to 12" tall, spreads slowly via underground rhizomes </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Comments: Woody, shade-loving ground cover. Small white flowers in short spikes in late winter, early spring. Attractive all year. Variegated form is also available. </blockquote>
Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-65670170554620735652012-03-06T09:14:00.002-08:002012-03-06T09:22:56.473-08:00Shrubs of SubstanceSometimes there is a large, empty area in a garden that needs something substantial to fill it up. For one reason or another, a tree would be out of place. Perennials and ground covers would be too small to provide the required visual oomph. What is needed is one really big shrub to fill the space and bring some interesting form, flower or fragrance into the garden. Here are some possible choices.<br />
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<b>Abelia grandiflora - Glossy abelia</b><br />
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Size: 8' tall x 5'+ wide</blockquote>
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Comments: 'Edward Goucher' is a smaller variety, about 5' tall; evergreen; profuse lilac blooms late summer through early fall; arching habit. Do not shear this plant, allow it plenty of room to spread.</blockquote>
<b>Arbutus unedo 'Compacta' - Compact strawberry tree</b><br />
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Size: 8' tall x 8' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Related to our native madrone tree; peeling, reddish bark; evergreen; clusters of white, bell-shaped flowers in spring; red fruit in fall resembling strawberries</blockquote>
<b>Berberis buxifolia - Magellan barberry</b><br />
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Size: 6' tall x 6' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Evergreen; upright; orange flowers, purple berries</blockquote>
<b>Camellia japonica - Camellia</b><br />
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Size: 10'+ tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Prefers some shade, although often grown in full sun; blooms in late winter; glossy green leaves; evergreen; can eventually be trained into a small tree</blockquote>
<b>Ceanothus impressus - Santa Barbara ceanothus</b><br />
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Size: 7-10' tall x 10-15' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Dense, dark evergreen foliage; dark blue flower clusters; 'Julia Phelps' on of the best cultivars with very dark blue flowers; profuse bloom in spring</blockquote>
<b>Choisya ternata - Mexican orange</b><br />
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Size: 6-8' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Evergreen; clusters of fragrant white flowers in spring smell like orange blossoms; dense shrub</blockquote>
<b>Cotoneaster lacteus (parneyi)</b><br />
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Size: 8' tall x 10' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Evergreen; tiny white flowers; heavy display of red berries; makes a good hedge or espallier</blockquote>
<b>Escallonia spp</b>.<br />
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Size: 5+ tall and wide depending on cultivar</blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Comments: E. 'Fradesii' gets 5-6' tall, evergreen with profuse rose pink bloom; E. 'Balfouri' gets up to 10' tall and wide with pink-tinged white flowers; E. 'Apple Blossom' 5' x 5', with white blossoms resembling apple blossoms</blockquote>
<b>Osmanthus burkwoodii (also called Osmarea burkwoodii)</b><br />
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Size: 6' tall x 6' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Slow growing; evergreen; small fragrant white flowers in spring; useful as a hedge; full sun/part shade</blockquote>
<b>Osmanthus delavay</b><br />
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Size: 4-6' tall x 6-8' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Evergreen; slow growing; graceful, arching branches; white, small fragrant flowers in spring</blockquote>
<b>Pyracantha coccinea - Firethorn</b><br />
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Size: 8-10' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Evergreen; can be trained along walls; valued for heavy clusters of red-orange berries that persists well into fall until birds eat them all; as name implies, plants are thorny</blockquote>
<b>Raphiolepis indica 'Majestic Beauty' - India hawthorne</b><br />
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Size: to 10' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Fragrant light pink flowers; can be shaped into small tree; evergreen; likes full sun</blockquote>
<b>Viburnum plicatum tomentosum 'Mariesii' - Marie's doublefile viburnum</b><br />
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Size: 6-8' tall x 8-10' wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Deciduous; layer branching pattern; large, white flowers line the tops of all the branches in spring; very showy and graceful; small red fruit starts red and turns black with age; good fall color</blockquote>
<b>Viburnum tinus 'Spring Bouquet' or 'Pink Dawn'</b><br />
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Size: to 12' tall and wide</blockquote>
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Comments: Likes full sun; evergreen; blooms fall into spring with clusters of tiny pink, slightly fragrant flowers; metallic blue fruit lasts until early summer</blockquote>
For more information on these shrubs and much, much more, get a copy of <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0376039205?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=0376039205">The New Sunset Western Garden Book</a></b>. This is the latest edition of this classic garden guide, released in February, 2012.Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5270636801232818053.post-43453795949642686752012-03-02T17:49:00.000-08:002012-03-03T09:03:53.389-08:00Rhododendrons That Don't Get Over 4 Feet Tall<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Rhododendron is the state flower of Washington. Hundreds of varieties thrive in our climate and their prolific blooms are a big part of the reason why spring is such a spectacular season in this region. Still, I've had lots of clients who don't like them. Mostly, their experience of rhodies is that they get huge, turn into big green uninteresting blobs, and block views from windows.<br />
<br />
But that doesn't have to be the case. Here's a list of compact Rhododendrons that won't outgrow their welcome.<br />
<br />
<b>'Bow Bells'</b> -- 3' -- deep pink buds, light pink flowers<br />
'<b>Cilpinense</b>' -- 3' -- blush pink flower touched with deeper pink; blooms early<br />
<b>'Daphnoides'</b> -- 4' -- unusual foliage, glossy green rolled leaves; purple flowers<br />
<b>'Dora Amateis'</b> -- 3' -- white flower; fragrant<br />
<b>'Impeditum' </b>-- 2' -- purple flower; gray green foliage<br />
<b>'Kimbeth' </b>-- 3' -- deep pink buds through winter open to rosy, red-pink blooms<br />
<b>'Mardi Gras' </b>-- 30" -- pink, blushed white flowers<br />
<b>'Molly Ann' </b>-- 2' -- rose-pink flowers<br />
<b>'Mrs. Furnival' </b>-- 4' -- light pink with striking blotch in center of flower<br />
<b>'Novo Brave' </b>-- 3' --bright pink with a red blotch in center<br />
<b>'Patty Bee' </b>-- 18" -- clear yellow flowers<br />
<b>'PJM' </b>-- 4' -- tolerates cold, heat and sun; blooms early; bright lavender pink flower<br />
<b>'Ramapo' </b>-- 2' -- pinkish-violet flower<br />
<b>'Rosamundi' </b>-- 4' -- light pink flower, blooms very early in the year<br />
<b>'Sapphire' </b>-- 30" -- light blue flowers; fragrant<br />
<b>'Scarlet Wonder' </b>-- 2' -- glossy green leaves; brilliant red bloom, award winner<br />
<b>'Snow Lady' </b>-- 30" -- white flowers resemble fallen snow; early bloomer<br />
<b>'Unique' </b>-- 4' -- bright pink buds open to buttery yellow bloom<br />
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<b>R. yakushimanum (also called "yaks") </b>-- several cultivars, including 'Yaku Angel,' 'Mist Maiden,' and 'Ken Janeck' -- 1' - 4' depending on the cultivar; very hardy; pink buds open to pink-turning-white, bell-shaped flowers; resistant to root weevil<br />
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For more information on rhododendrons, I recommend <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0910013055?ie=UTF8&tag=hort-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=0910013055"><b>Greer's Guidebook to Available Rhododendrons</b>,</a> by Harold Greer. I've used my copy so much, it is literally falling apart. It's held together now with scotch tape. This book is considered by many to be "the bible" on rhododendrons with descriptions and ratings of hundreds of cultivars. He includes color photos of many flowers, as well.Marie McKinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12061540293923506267noreply@blogger.com